Of Towers and Sailboats and Friendly French

The last day of vacation is always bittersweet, especially so for Paris for me. It suddenly feels like you've done nothing, yet everything and time is running out. Given the opportunity to spend a year or two here, I would not hesitate to make the move. The lifestyle and joie de vivre is truly contagious.

I suppose it is always a 'see you soon' rather than permanent goodbye. There's something timeless, yet modern about this beautiful place that defies comparison.

On the last day, we honor Pierce's request to check out the Eiffel Tower. Mind you, not actually go up in it, but just check it out from the ground. We've both hiked the tower and taken the elevator in the past, so I think we've contributed enough money to this view to last our lifetimes.

Pierce thought it was vitally important to Wave the W with an Eiffel Tower backdrop and really, you can't argue with that.

The grounds of the Eiffel Tower should be renamed Capital of Selfie Sticks, the young men peddling the iconic annoyances alongside the more traditional tower trinkets certainly seem to rake in the dough.

A few poses here and there and we are ready for our next adventure. Heading to the only above ground Metro line is always a Pierce highlight. We take it to Luxembourg Gardens and enjoy the expanse, largely without anyone else in sight; unusual for a Saturday afternoon.

Of course, other than beautiful grounds the main reason for a visit here is the boats for hire. The tiny sailboats that dot the main fountain in front of the Palais. Proving you are never too old or young, both Pierce and Mitch delight in this activity. While the wind is a bit lacking, we still give it a go and select a boat from Morocco.  This seems like the right move since on its very first journey, it sails across at a fairly decent clip.  Boats from Greece and the Netherlands eventually join in the fun, but it's empty for the most part.

Beautiful mums continue to bloom to create a colorful splendor that fits the park beautifully. I've always adored this location.  After sailing we decide to walk towards St. Sulpice for lunch.  We meander through a quiet block and happen upon a quiet corner restaurant that maybe seats 25 people. Le Bon Saint Pourcain turns out to be a total gem. It's gourmet for sure and initially we venture in and there's not exactly a warm greeting.  We are asked to wait outside for a few minutes, when a table might be available. No worries, it's the definition of a quaint little street.

Our hesitation subsides nearly immediately upon being called in for our table.  The waiters are a delight and absolutely adore Chicago. One of them engages with Pierce about stepping out on the glass walkway at the Sears Tower and how much he loved it.  He also is an enthusiastic collector of police patches and thinks Chicago's is fantastic.

Lunch is sublime. A very small menu but absolutely divine in its simplicity. Pierce declares the chicken the best he's ever had. It's from some 'famous' chicken guy somewhere in the Normandy area, who apparently is the chicken king. At any rate, the food is as tasty as it is gorgeously plated.  I break my cardinal rule and snap a photo of the celery soup.

I have one last stop that I need to make on this trip and it's the target of Paris Monoprix!  But not before we venture through a Paris location of the London chain Marks and Spencer.  Behind the store is a small fresh food market with an amazing selection.  We clamor for some fruit to take home to eat before our flight in the am. Lychees and clementimes it is, although we could have selected much more for the infinite items.



Food stands are arranged so artistically here, you wonder if we would ever take the time in the US.  Probably not, but I love the French for this.

Monoprix follows are market visit and it's a score for Pierce with some new clothes that are certified Paris fashionable.

And the fashion parade doesn't end when I pop into a shop I've been eyeing all week and buy.....wait for it....a scarf! Yes of course this is the third one this trip, but when you live in Chicago it's definitely not a splurge purchase right?!

Jardin by day, Jazz by night

It's Friday and we have a first signs of Paris weather.  Although it is 50, there's that unmistakeable dampness that chills you outright. No complaints though, as this is the first time this trip that Paris has shown her true weather.

What better day to head to an amusement park right?! We unintentionally go about reliving Pierce's 3rd birthday at the Jardin d'Acclimitation. Our first plan to rent bikes at the Bois de Boulogne, but we were sidetracked at Porte Maillot where Le Petite Train takes you to the amusement park. And, once Pierce eyed that train, we were off on a visit to yesteryear when he was just barely old enough to ride some of the attractions.

This go around lots is closed, but lucky for Mitch not the 'river cruise'. He loves it more than he's willing to admit. Just about the only other ride actually open is a roller coaster, so Pierce has many go arounds and we do a few too. There's a small bumper car ride that Pierce manages to make a friend with the only other kid around and they have a few plays.  Bumper car fun can transcend any language barrier. There's still a sense of pure joy for Pierce on these rides and we can only cherish that now before the tween thing sets in.

We stroll ever to the Foundation Louis Vuitton adjacent to the park, but just take a gander at the outside, as the exhibit is a popular one now and more line waiting is not our thing on this day.

The grounds are really beautiful and with fall colors still hanging on, there is a zen feeling to it.  Hunger prevails and we trek (and trek) to find a restaurant that is not too crowded and is not fast food. Apparently everyone had the same idea to eat lunch at 3:00 pm on Friday. Finally, we find the perfect spot and the food and warmth nourish us forward.

It's back to our hood and our daily visit to BHV, I just love this department store. It's got a great vibe and the basement sells everything from leather hides to toilet brushes and safes. Always a bit of a trip.

Back at the apartment and it's nearly time for date night part deux.  We have no plans, except for the vague idea that we'd like to see some more live music.  We eventually head to the Latin Quarter and find Le Petite Journal Saint Michele. It's an old and well respected Jazz club that has a band called High Society de Paris on this night.

The basement venue is tiny and the 7 piece band is clustered in a corner. It feels like watching the band in a cave, a cozy one.  The band is fantastic and with wine and a cheese plate and a French Jazz band, it feels authentic and a perfect date.

A Market Feast

Crepes, Paella and Oysters Oh My! Nothing says Thanksgiving like a street market.

The best way to eat your way through Paris is the food markets. And, the best of the best can be found in the shadow of the Bastille monument, where every Thursday and Sunday two hundred plus vendors invade the area.

Until now, I've not had a true Galette on this trip, a buckwheat bonanza of goodness that seems impossible to ever recreate at home. The Breton vendor at the Bastille market had me at egg, tomato and goat cheese, pure breakfast heaven. Pierce opts for a Nutella and banana crepe and who can blame him. Mitch goes for a paella from an adjacent stand.

Further into the Market, Mitch decides we need Oysters. He's right of course. And picks the perfect stand. A quick conversation yields amazing results and a mixed plate of delicacies. Oh, and free wine.  I nearly forgot the most important part. The Oyster Monger (I assume this name stands) is very generous and when I try to pay for the wine refuses me outright.  En Francais Bien Sur.

Following our culinary adventure, Pierce suggests another Christmas Market.  Do we dare? Okay fine.  The Champs Elysee market it is.

The festive atmosphere is always a delight, even if it can be beyond cheesy.  The gourmet pavilion has a champagne hut and a hundred wonderful smells wafting from each booth. Pierce decides he needs even more food and grabs a salmon sandwich, while Mitch and I enjoy some of the Bieres de Noel. A leisurely few hours is spent meandering the booths and buying the requisite Christmas ornament.

The wonder of food and a culinary crash course courtesy of the friendly vendors makes this a special day indeed. Oh and there is also time for some 'snow' sledding fun for the boys.

Finally, it's back to the apartment to stalk the noodle place on the corner for its 7 pm opening time. Mitch takes one for the team and stands guard in line starting at 6 pm.  Well, rather, he sits guard while bringing a small plastic stool from the apartment.  It gives an air of professional line waiter.

We are ushered in at precisely 7 pm and enjoy a true feast of deliciousness to celebrate Turkey Day the Sichuan way.

Full bellies and thankful for another beautiful day in Paris.

Reflections on Normandy

It's rise and shine at 6 am to catch a 7 am train to Caen (imagine you are a crow and that's how you pronounce this city's name). A little glitch in the train sets off a bit late, but we have a cabin nearly to ourselves, until some random backpacker decides to crash.  C'est la Vie.

At only 1 hour 40 minutes, it's an easy ride. Mitch and Pierce sleep, while I keep vigil making sure we get off at the right stop.

Awaiting our arrival is a guide I hired for a 9 hour tour of the Normandy sites.  Specifically the American beaches, cemetery and anything else we can fit in.  Mathias is everything he is advertised to be and more.  A Normandy native, his encyclopedic knowledge combined with his family's personal history is extraordinary.

Mathias outlining the invasion 

Omaha Beach is the first stop and what strikes me is my God, this is absolutely massive. It's also the most peaceful scene I've come across in a long time.  We are alone on this wide expanse of beach and the sun is impeccable and the sea resembles Lake Michigan, a flat horizon of passiveness.

Of course, what happened here is anything but passive, rather an unimaginable blood bath. Mathias methodically details the events of June 6, 1944 complete with photos and 'sand mapping' of the beach invasion. It's nearly too much to comprehend.

A hike up the bluff of pure green carpet of grass and it feels like Ireland.  Wild flowers still bloom, despite the calendar. Solemn monuments stand guard like fortified bastions of hope.

The American cemetery overlooking Omaha Beach is an exceptionally beautiful monument to those who gave their lives so others may see days of freedom. It is at once visually stunning and heartbreaking.

On the inside of a German bunker. This one overtaken by some
seriously incredible Army Rangers.

A visit to Pont Du Hoc yields the highlights of the trip for Pierce, wandering German bunkers on the inside while running through craters, produced by American bombs on the outside that make the area look like the moon's surface. The story of victory here is astounding. Imagining the Rangers climbing up 100 feet of sheer cliff to disarm the bunkers is unfathomable.

Running through the craters created by American bombs

A mix of confusing emotions overtakes you as you hear and see of this unbelievable fight for freedom and then remember the ugly hatred of the current day.




I am incredibly grateful and thankful we got to experience the powerful visit to such a sacred place and with all my being believe that hope and freedom can triumph.

At 9 Pierce was the perfect age for a visit, he engaged enthusiastically with Mathias, understood the gravity and it yielded a train ride full of conversation back home.

With a 9:30 pm arrival in Paris, it was off to a dinner at a corner bistro for some wonderful reflection on the day accompanied by Beef Bourgignon.

Needless to say, if a visit to Normandy is on your  bucket list, make it priority number one.

Christmas Around the World

With the unseasonably warm temps here, Christmas seems months away. But, of course, it's right around the corner, or in this case about 7 Metro stops away.  We venture to La Defense, home of the city's biggest Christmas Market. It's the downtown area that we really have no use for in a typical visit, but what's not to like about 300 plus Christmas booths!

Truly, the best xmas market we've been too, it's chock full of delicious delicacies from across the globe. Margaritas and burritos anyone? Corsican beer? Tunisian feast?  A flavor fest awaits. What also awaits is insanely high priced nougat, but holy crap it's good. And did I mention the cute boots of beer? Pere Noel did not make an appearance, but Pierce had fun hanging in his workshop nonetheless.

A lovely scarf also finds its way into my heart and on my neck.  I mean, I had to, I only brought one to Paris! That's almost a sin.

A big day with an actual plan tomorrow and an early wake up time awaits.

This Much is True

A late wake up was in store, after a long day on Tuesday. Today we had a vague mission, the Arts et Metiers museum. I've avoided it like the plague, because, really who wants to go to an arts and crafts museum? Truth be told, I've known it's a scientific museum for some time, but I've had a hard time forgiving the name.

There's really nothing better than an entire museum to yourself, no matter the subject. And this turns out to be a gem worth visiting. Although it will make you feel uber old, after viewing the 'ancient' fax machines! It's a beautiful space and even better when your only comrades are the very few and far between security guards. Imagination runs rampant.

The piece de resistance is the incredibly beautiful space they have taken over of the church next door.  Gliders, a Folcum pendant and cars galore decorate this grandiose space.  It's worth the price of admission just for this room.

Alain is so popular that he now as a social media presence, which
he would love to have you 'like'. 

All roads lead to Le Marche Des Enfants Rouge following the museum and it helps that it is 4 blocks away.  We expect a line for the Sandwhich master of the world but literally a huge huge obstacle awaits. Approximately 1.5 hours later we arrive at the altar.  We are blessed with the most scrumptious meal ever.  Yeah, it's that good, suck it up and wait and you will not be disappointed. We showed Alain (yes, the guy has a name) the picture of Pierce at his stand when he was three.  He was delighted and demanded Pierce, (he has dubbed him Pierre) to speak French the next visit.

After taking the glorious food to a park bench for lunch at the Square de Temple, we wander over to Notre Dame and sit and stare at the imposing and beautiful structure from the square out front. Then it's back home to get ready for the le babysitter.

Mitch and I randomly find out that Tony Hadley for Spandau Ballet is in concert at a very small local venue. The best part?  It's two metro stops away! We venture to Republique and to the venue called Alhambra, a small theatre that holds around 600 persons max and , for this show perhaps only 250 buy tickets.

A stunning show follows.  Queen, Don Henley and the Killers dot the line-up of his favorites.  An amazing show with fantastic sound.

A beautiful date night indeed

Le Tour de Paris-Velib Style

It's finally happened! Pierce is big enough to ride the Velib bikes and what better day then Car Free Seine Sunday! It takes some persuading, but when we are finally off and cycling, it's fantastic. Very uncrowded and gloriously gloomy. A fun two hours is had by all.

A lunch in the Marais yields great food on a second floor foray into perfect people watching.

A flaneur stroll takes us to a multitude of unintended pit stops, each a joy to behold.

Alas, our walk ends with an actual destination, the Pompidou. Open until 11 pm, there's this much ado Magritte exhibit, complete with Art Institute cooperation, so it's seems we must go. And, of course, it's the boy's favorite spot in Paris.

Between tube rides and cigars, it's a Sunday Funday indeed. Apres le show, we decide on a neighborhood bistro, Le Petit Marcel. Long story short, one of the most welcoming and fun Paris dining experiences of all time (see Darth Vader bathroom photo for evidence.)