Sketch and stroll

So a few days late and many Euros short, but I am finally completing the blog for this trip.

Let the sketching begin

After the day long adventure to the Capital of Christmas on Monday,  I plan on the whole lot of us sleeping in for a relaxing final day on Tuesday.

Building construction has another idea. I never thought the French worked at 8:30 am. But apparently the unit above ours is undergoing renovation, either that or they just like to play with drills.

Actually this apartment has a mix of noise treats, one more decidedly pleasant.  There's a vocal school just beneath us and there's truly lovely Opera singers in training belting it out for good portions of the day.

So up and at it early, Pierce comes up with an inspired idea for the final day.  He would like to sketch his way through Paris. His goal is to visit some major museums and monuments with sketch book/journal in tow.

We start at the Pompidou, as it is closed on Tuesdays, he has the plaza to himself. A pretty good rendition of the 'inside out' modern masterpiece is drawn-up. It's another delightfully clear and sunny day, perfect for a final stroll about town.

Getting some perspective in front of Notre Dame

Next up is Notre Dame, it's still relatively early (11:30 am) and we set our sights on the line for the stairs up to the towers.  It's really quite short, so while Mitch stands in-line, Pierce takes a seat in from the the Grande Dame and produces a very pretty picture. While tourists linger about looking at his sketching, I feel like we should almost put a hat out for tips.

The line is all of 15 minutes, which is tolerable even for me, by the time Pierce is done sketching we are ascending into the winding steps of the tower

Rather than exit through the gift shop, you enter through it to visit the Notre Dame tower steps.  As with some of the other activities of this trip, it's been years since we went to the top of Notre Dame and with unlimited sunshine and clear views over the rooftops of Paris, why not?

A mere 400 twisting and turning steps later and we make it to the top at the ideal time.  It's Noon and the bells are announcing the midday in earnest.  Being able to see the action up close is remarkable for the eyes, not so much on the ears.. After about 40 minutes of admiring the vistas we descend the stairs and its on to the next adventure.

The Gargoyle view

Working up an appetite after the steps we hop the metro to hit up the culinary stop we do not want to miss, the sandwhich guy at Marche des Enfants Rouge (see previously blog posts for our adoration of this master). The stop is Arts et Metiers on the Metro, which breaks with tradition and foregoes subway tile for a cooper filled fantasy submarine effect.  It's a delightful departure that plays to great affect.

With the Marche in sight, a slight panic sets in that Monsieur Sandwich will not be there today.  And, panic is well warranted, he is off on Tuesday!  The market is open, but I forget that he is gone on Tuesday.  I won't make this mistake on the next trip :)

Not to worry as the area has a plethora of available options. We hit up the Cafe de Marche Des Enfants Rouge (no points for originality on the name).  But as random finds sometimes have a way of being exactly what you need, the Cafe is a find. A vegetable soup for me is divine, while Pierce falls in love with a creamy ravioli and gives the escargots a try. "A little too chewy, but not bad" quote the boy.
Mitch has what he calls a PETA nightmare, veal liver, which he devours.

Back on the Metro and it's off to the Jardin de Tullieries by the Louvre.  It's one of those days you can't waste inside and the gardens offer nice sketching opportunities to boot. Unfortunately the small boats you rent to guide around the  fountains are not for hire on Tuesdays, but we grab three of the iconic green chairs and just soak in the scene. It's one of those moments you can retreat back to when life gets hectic.

Back on the metro and we head for the Rue de Montorgueuil for some hot chocolate (which turns into a Nutella milkshake instead) and Affilgems for us. A short stroll back to the apartment and we chill until dinner.

For our last night we are thinking Korean BBQ, there used to be a great spot in the Marais. We discover it is no longer there but hit up a place a few doors down that is Japanese teppanaki.

And so we spend our last night in Paris enjoying la cuisine Japonais.  It's perfect.

Taking the TGV to Christmastown

200 mph never felt so smooth in the bar car.

The day the P man has waited for has arrived.  It's TGV day and he is up at 6:30 a.m all his own to embrace the high speed wonder.  He was too little on previous trips to remember much of the TGV, but has dutifully read up on its' engineering marvels.

A funny thing happened in France, he will correct Mitch for the English pronunciation of TGV, he actively gets annoyed. He's actually been trying to speak as much French as possible and for that, I give him tons of credit.  Wait until he hates me later for making him take French via private tutor.  One of the absolute best things my parents ever did for me (and they did an IMMENSE amount) and I hated every minute of it, until I was old enough to appreciate it.

I actually get a little teary about the thought of not speaking French on the return home.  Yeah, yeah, I could join a group or something, but it's just not the same :)

modern meets old in a redux  Solider Field. 

At any rate, back to the TGV.  Since we have been to Paris a good deal of visits and I know the TGV will make Pierce's year, I opt for a visit to the Capitale de Noel.  Yep the Capital of Christmas, Strasbourg.  It's a relatively new TGV destination (2007),and it's just over 2 hours, so it seems the perfect option.  Plus their legendary Christmas Markets has started three days prior so it's a must visit.

The train on the way out is perfection.  Literally, reminds me of airline travel waaaaaay back in the day. And we are in second class!  We all snooze a bit but the wonder in Pierce's face is contagious.  The 'hardened' business men next to use even smile in his amazement.  Strasbourg is the center for EU business and such so lots and lots of business travelers.

Notre Dame in Strasbourg puts the Paris lady in her place

So in general, Strasbourg services elves and business travelers.

Being a bit North of Paris, I fear it may be a bit chilly, but alas unprecedented Paris sunshine follows us to Strasbourg. Although a winter white dusting may be more appropriate for Christmas town.

The train is of course, on time!  Shocking to American's who ride rails.  The station is a mix of old and new and instantly reminds me of Solider Field.  The mix is the same.

A very short walk into 'town' and it's clear Strasbourg is straight out of central casting for Christmas.  They've lived up to their name of the capital of christmas.  It's quaint and charming and a bit Epcot.  You can walk the whole place, but of course they have a Tram……Hmmmm…..this smells like Disney and I almost look for logos underneath the tram.

The Christmas Market goods are from China generally so I am holding on to my Euros. Ironically I find the best ornaments in the Croation market (Strasbourg invites a new country every year to host a market in their monstrosity of xmas markets).  Seriously, the displays are CB2 personified for the most part.  Give me something that says Strasbourg at least (Thank you Croatia).

On to the other Kindlemarket staple, Vin Chaud.  Which translates to hot sugar wine.  Seriously vile, but it is sold every two feet so I imagine someone drinks the stuff.. And unlike their Parisians counterparts they do not sell beer at xmas markets, it is all vin chaud all the time.

A visit to the Notre Dame of Stasbourg is inspired.  Because Pierce and Mitch love all things clock, we visit the astrological clock in the cathedral, which honestly is stunning and dare I say better than Paris' lady church. I always marvel at how the heck they constructed these things, I mean it is miraculous in and of itself.

A visit to a local brewery is okay, but then again I think we are particularly spoiled by good beer and may be a bit 'high brow' in the regard.  But the food is actually really good and it's a quaint and 'rustic' joint, (read: a bit divey), which suits us well.

The overall atmosphere of Strasbourg at Christmas is magical. Yes, I just used a Disney term.  Alas, the lights street tiny corridors and alleys and general cheer are wonders.  The day is long, but lovely.  A short walk back to the train station and the day is one for the memory books.

Pomp and Pleasant Surprises

Escalator action with photo bombers

It's the first Sunday of the month, which means Christmas is 24 days away and also means, it's freebie day at Paris museums! To parents everywhere this roughly translates to you can get the heck outta dodge if the kid or kiddos hate it, without any “do you know what I paid to get in here?” confrontations.

Pierce has asked repeatedly, as in every single hour of the trip, to got to the Pompidou.  Make no mistake, while Art is his favorite class in school, this is all about the irresistible escalators.  Seriously even I admit they are cool looking.

To indulge the child and get some art on while we are here, we relent.  And, mostly because it is 50 meters from our apartment, so there’s just zero excuse. Really, we need some culture people.

Appreciating the art, by far the coolest piece

We arrive at  the opening hour of 11 a.m and it’s perfectly sans crowd.  As in galleries to yourself.  This is after we trek the escaltors a few (hundred) times.

We confer with the petite art aficionado to gauge his interest in checking out the galleries on floors 4 and 5 and he agrees like a French waiter (formerly known as garçon, when you ask for a check), which means it is with utter indifference that he accepts his fate.  And then the fun begins.  He is absolutely fascinated,enraptured by the  works of art.  I suspect this has to do with the fact that most of it looks approachable, and like something that a say. 6 year old could do?

Draw Yourself

No knocking modern art, but it absolutely appeals to the 1st grade demographic.  Pierce’s commentary throughout the galleries is unmatched.  Really we would have been bummed to get the audio tape tour , it would have been far less enlightening then his proclamation of modern art.  Needless to say, the boy had us going for nearly 2 hours through the exhibits.

Because Frida is everyone's homegirl

A stop at the galleries enfant (which was a Frida Kahlo tribute) and the trip is nearly complete.  With one important exception, the gift shop at the Pompidou is seriously swank and addicting. Funky little finds can keep you occupied for hours.  Pierce walked away with a spongy Lego notebook.  Not an official Lego product mind you, but an ‘artistic’ representation.  Even more than the real thing.

Starving for lunch, we retreat to the heart of the Marais.  A quick circle of the hotspots for food and it’s clear, it’s another Sunday Funday and we need to go seriously local.  Back to our old standby, Le Sevigne. It’s definitely not the best food, but it is cozy and familiar and best of all has available seating for us.

Refueled and ready to roll, we hit up Places de Vosges. Really one of the singular best places in Paris.  So Victor Hugo lived there and all, but even better there are joggers who case the square wearing Burberry and boots (not kidding), this never changes.  One thing that has changed is the playground, major upgrade!  Some pseudo mini ninja warrior creations and Pierce is ready to blow off steam.

International playground rules are in effect and Pierce hits his stride . Mitch and I listen to gorgeous Opera singers  a la street performers and it’s pretty much the perfect Paris Sunday.

After Vosges, we head home and stop for a quick aperitif, just something before the Bears game.  Like a pregame cocktail, only in a swanky bar.  The people turn out to be wonderful and Pierce indulges in a Nutella Crepe, while Mitch and I indulge in pints of Leffe.

Here’s the part where I skip the crap show that was the Bears game.  Suffice to say, we’ve now watched the Bears in more than 5 countries and I don’t want to remember this one.

On the plus side, I get some crepes sale from this women down the block that literally has been a serious Grinch on previous visits and somehow is insanely polite on this visit (insane, may be a theme with her).


To bed early, the TGV and the capital of Christmas awaits…..

Tales from the Tower and Sidewalk Solitude

First stop after the first 'flight' of stairs

The MetroKing on his throne

Another great weather day has us setting our sights on the Eiffel Tower.  As usual the fun is in actually getting there.  Two different metro stops, where we have to switch at stations!  Wow, if Pierce had his way we would go the 'long' way around and switch 50 times before arriving at a destination.

Pierce is thrilled to get the newer train car on the first ride, which means no driver up front, sort of like a    Disney people mover, which means you can spend a fraction of the cost by cruising around on new Metro trains than hitting up Disney Paris.

After positioning himself to ensure first car status, we are off and riding with Pierce and a train buddy in the drivers seats.  This French kiddo has no idea that Pierce doesn't speak French and regales him the whole time with excited delight on all things train.  Pierce nods and smiles and I guess two 6 years do indeed share an international language for all things train.

The elevated metro to the Eiffel Tower is the old school one, but the views suffice for Pierce to be pleased.   A quick walk to the giant tinkertoy of Paris and we are met with not an entirely bad line to go up, but as previously mentioned lines are our arch nemesis.  We take a look at the line to walk the stairs (nearly nothing) and opt for that instead.

Bathroom envy

Good idea for exercise and sights.  While Mitch and I sweated our way up the steps, Pierce practically bounded up the xxx steps.  A stunning view awaits and we enjoy the scenery a bit before taking the elevator down.  Check it off the list, and add another adventure that was amazingly fun and one that I didn't really have any intention of taking, such is travel with a 6 year old as cruise director.

Another couple metro rides finds us for lunch by the Sorbonne, with the intent to cruise Luxembourg Gardens afterwards.  We instead have a delicious and leisurely lunch, preceded by some great street music.  Both the bar and bathrooms at the restaurant leave Mitch and I with design envy.  A zinc bar with a stellar tap line is exceptionally well done.  We also harbor fantasies of redoing our main floor bathroom in Metro stop fashion.  And hey tons of people have long used metro stops as a bathroom, so it makes sense.

Christmas glory at Galeries Lafayette

Finding the gardens closed after our long lunch with hop the metro back for a second round of roller coaster riding at the Champs Elysees Kindlemarket.  It's a mob scene, but super festive and the roller coaster line is short.  Mitch and I indulge in a few Christmas ales, while Pierce does a few rounds on the nighttime coaster, which he swears goes faster at night.

As if our day is not already full enough we kept it going on another two Metro trains to check out the indoor displays at Galleries Layfette, a humongous, luxury monstrosity of a department store.  The place is pumping and for good reasons the Christmas decor is inspired.  And with that much Haute Couture as the sidekicks to the decor, it's a smashing success.

Another couple metro rides and we are back home and beat.  Paris is jumping on a Saturday night, but we are calling it early.  Take out is in order and there's only one place we want.  Falafels from Rue de Rosiers.  It's only about a 8 minute walk or so and I volunteer for the job.

One of the few things I enjoy is walking Paris by myself.  It's so magically cool with a side of a little grit that makes me want to just wander it all in silence, at my own pace.  Could be the equivalent of what a walk on the beach does for some people.  I need a city sidewalk as my atmosphere.

Our go to Falafel shop and a reason for a walk

The Champs-Elysees YAY! (you read that right)

Christmas Beers do not disappoint

Another Noon start time to our day.  May have something do to the fact that Pierce went to bed past Midnight.  I will say this, he fully embraces the culture here.

I  break my rule and we go to the Champs-Elysees.  Before you think I am heading to the equivalent of Woodfield Mall (and you would be correct), I must shed light on the reason for our visit. Rumor has it that the Christmas Kindlemarket is pretty kick-butt.  We take a chance and hit the jackpot.

Something that a dear friend said to me last week struck a cord. Looking at you KS!  She and her daughter were in NYC and she had a set of plans that did not include the typical tourist dreg.  But when she got there and saw the smiles that even the simplest things brought, all plans out the window. Wise words.

The market is pure magic and a kid heaven. Best of all, no lines, no waiting.  I do not need to remind anyone, The Gordons are line free. Yes, I get it, I could use some botox, but that's another post.

A ride on the Ferris Wheel

We hit up the massive Ferris Wheel, for the cool price of 25 Euros.  Normally I would say not worth it, but with zero line and a killer view, who can argue. The dude gives us three rotations and we are set.

Off to the more than 350 merchants that are part of the market, lots and lots of repeats.  But alas, the boys face is pure happiness the whole time.  A ride down a slide, a roller coaster excursion and a 'bungy cord' bouncy thing are huge hits.

Lest you think Mitch and I are martyrs we indulge in the Christmas Ales available at nearly every stand.  

Pierce kept calling Euros Churros, so I could
not resist this picture

Thrilled to taste the Noel version of some of our favorites, Leffe, Grimbergen and Affilgem we solider on in the name of Christmas spirit.

A Metro ride back to our hood and a quick wine fused lunch brings us back to one of my other favorite Paris outposts….BHV.  This department store is simply devine.  You may compare it to a Sears but that would be an insult.  The basement does indeed have tools and also leather hides?!  But it is pure class  So much so that I indulge my shopping tendencies and buy a few beautiful things for the P monster.  Yes, he could care less, but as long as I can dress him like he gives a hoot I will continue.  Really is it any wonder we stopped at one, what would I do with a girl.  Besides drive me insane, I may be responsible of the Gordon bankruptcy

One of the many rides and activities
at the Kindlemarket

All roads lead to Lego (we think)

Not sure why we agreed to this, but Pierce was adamant that the Lego Store in Paris, was a must do for all of us. At any rate, trusty google map in phone and we were off at the very early hour of Noon.  Well, we are on vacation.  As all things Parisien our day started with a visit to the bakery and more pain au chocolate.  We needed reinforcement for the walk to the Lego Store.

Long story short, Google is a day late an a Euro short on their directions and address for the Lego Store.  It in fact directs you to the Lego headquarters and we all know that a bunch of corporate types are the last peeps anyone wants to hang with on a vacation.  The lovely young British lad at reception kindly directed us to where the real Lego Store was and his expression clearly  said "If I had a Euro for every person who came in looking for the store, I would ditch this dead end desk job"

A few blocks later and we hit pay dirt!  Not only that but the store is located in a beautiful covered mall that is a series of toy shops.  Needless to say Pierce is tres content.  We limit his purchase to under 20 euros, which he replies "How many churros is this?"  hmmm, well points for effort, he does like to equate everything with food.

We hop the metro and opt to lunch near our 'old' apartment in the marais by Place des Vosges.  We are walking along and spot a quaint little bistro, Le Petite Marche.  It's charming and delicious spot that we enjoy immensely.  Upon receiving his food, Pierce exclaims  "Wow!  I got a huge piece of meat!"  Yep, that's our boy.

Up next is one of my absolute favorite excursions of all time….MONOPRIX.  More than the Target of Paris, this is one of my beloved must visit spots.  And, yes there are tons of Monoprix stores throughout the city, but the one in the Marais is superb!  Literally there is no equal.  It rocks.  It not only has delicious fois gras (mitch), but it has the most gorgeous lingerie section (me) and a kick butt boys section ℗, which makes this particular outlet beyond compare.

Heading back on the number one line to Chatelet and I do battle with my most hated metro stop yet again  UGH, I should really learn.  Alas, we buy some new beer, head home and wait for it…….build Legos!  A quick trip for a very late dinner (10 p.m) even late by French standards and we finally sleep. A beautiful first full day.

Planes, Trains and Buses (not as catchy)

Nous sommes arrives!  The travel day consisted of all of Pierce's favorite things, all transportation related of course.  The 152 bus to the Blue Line, a flight to Paris then and RER train from CDG.   A relatively short walk to the apartment and we crash.  Well, by relative I mean 10 minutes, with the arch nemesis for all metro stations, Chatelet.  It's not enough that this particular stop connects with no less than 10 transport options, but they must also have 30 exits, most of which are closed due to construction work.  Needless to say even in the best of times, this metro stop and I are on bad terms.

My personal Chatelet issues aside, our trip was stress free.  File under the reasons why we travel internationally at Thanksgiving…..empty flights!  Which means, rows for everyone.  Suck it business class, we are reclining in all our own rows here in the cheap seats.  I say business class because this is the last equipment from AA that has yet to be upgraded.  We are talking no personal video devices here  people, dark ages.

Fortunately it is an overnight flight, so all we need is dinner and a glass of wine (me) beer (mitch) and French flight attendant who dotes on Pierce.   Unfortunately for the rest of the flight the first movie is Disney's Planes.  Wow!!!  exciting to no one, except Pierce.  Who, incidentally just watched this on the way back from the OC.

Fast forward …..easy flight, great apartment and we hit the road, after nap! I am military about a nap after the flight and mitch and pierce sleep peacefully for two full hours, me….not so much.  Le sigh.

We hit up Notre Dame for the windows and laugh at the tourists standing in line for the towers  Something Pierce has inherited from the both of us, we do not do lines.  Apres the Notre Dame excursion, Pierce is all about the Hotel de Ville carasole.  Just like old times, only now he is old enough to ride alone, no twirly whirly for us!  A visit to the Stravinsky fountain seals the deal on cool factor for Pierce.

A short stop at the store for provisions….mainly special edition beers and some breakfast stuff and we head back to the apartment.  An early dinner at the local falafel stop is next.  Seriously great stuff. Pierce cleans his plate and Mitch's.  Not ready to hit the bed, we venture the 10 meters to the nearest bar with Pierce in tow.  A big futbul match is on and Pierce is instantly engaged.  What the heck would we do if this kid was not into sports…..shudder!!!!

My personal challenge of the day is trying to engage to the locals in futbul talk.  I am hopeless and I never feel like more a fish out of water.  Can you imagine, me not being able to talk sports.  My downfall being I don't' know soccer in english, let alone French.  An attempt to steer the conversation to the NFL does not go over as planned.  Oh Well, there's still a language of sports and it wins over :)