A Market Feast

Crepes, Paella and Oysters Oh My! Nothing says Thanksgiving like a street market.

The best way to eat your way through Paris is the food markets. And, the best of the best can be found in the shadow of the Bastille monument, where every Thursday and Sunday two hundred plus vendors invade the area.

Until now, I've not had a true Galette on this trip, a buckwheat bonanza of goodness that seems impossible to ever recreate at home. The Breton vendor at the Bastille market had me at egg, tomato and goat cheese, pure breakfast heaven. Pierce opts for a Nutella and banana crepe and who can blame him. Mitch goes for a paella from an adjacent stand.

Further into the Market, Mitch decides we need Oysters. He's right of course. And picks the perfect stand. A quick conversation yields amazing results and a mixed plate of delicacies. Oh, and free wine.  I nearly forgot the most important part. The Oyster Monger (I assume this name stands) is very generous and when I try to pay for the wine refuses me outright.  En Francais Bien Sur.

Following our culinary adventure, Pierce suggests another Christmas Market.  Do we dare? Okay fine.  The Champs Elysee market it is.

The festive atmosphere is always a delight, even if it can be beyond cheesy.  The gourmet pavilion has a champagne hut and a hundred wonderful smells wafting from each booth. Pierce decides he needs even more food and grabs a salmon sandwich, while Mitch and I enjoy some of the Bieres de Noel. A leisurely few hours is spent meandering the booths and buying the requisite Christmas ornament.

The wonder of food and a culinary crash course courtesy of the friendly vendors makes this a special day indeed. Oh and there is also time for some 'snow' sledding fun for the boys.

Finally, it's back to the apartment to stalk the noodle place on the corner for its 7 pm opening time. Mitch takes one for the team and stands guard in line starting at 6 pm.  Well, rather, he sits guard while bringing a small plastic stool from the apartment.  It gives an air of professional line waiter.

We are ushered in at precisely 7 pm and enjoy a true feast of deliciousness to celebrate Turkey Day the Sichuan way.

Full bellies and thankful for another beautiful day in Paris.

Reflections on Normandy

It's rise and shine at 6 am to catch a 7 am train to Caen (imagine you are a crow and that's how you pronounce this city's name). A little glitch in the train sets off a bit late, but we have a cabin nearly to ourselves, until some random backpacker decides to crash.  C'est la Vie.

At only 1 hour 40 minutes, it's an easy ride. Mitch and Pierce sleep, while I keep vigil making sure we get off at the right stop.

Awaiting our arrival is a guide I hired for a 9 hour tour of the Normandy sites.  Specifically the American beaches, cemetery and anything else we can fit in.  Mathias is everything he is advertised to be and more.  A Normandy native, his encyclopedic knowledge combined with his family's personal history is extraordinary.

Mathias outlining the invasion 

Omaha Beach is the first stop and what strikes me is my God, this is absolutely massive. It's also the most peaceful scene I've come across in a long time.  We are alone on this wide expanse of beach and the sun is impeccable and the sea resembles Lake Michigan, a flat horizon of passiveness.

Of course, what happened here is anything but passive, rather an unimaginable blood bath. Mathias methodically details the events of June 6, 1944 complete with photos and 'sand mapping' of the beach invasion. It's nearly too much to comprehend.

A hike up the bluff of pure green carpet of grass and it feels like Ireland.  Wild flowers still bloom, despite the calendar. Solemn monuments stand guard like fortified bastions of hope.

The American cemetery overlooking Omaha Beach is an exceptionally beautiful monument to those who gave their lives so others may see days of freedom. It is at once visually stunning and heartbreaking.

On the inside of a German bunker. This one overtaken by some
seriously incredible Army Rangers.

A visit to Pont Du Hoc yields the highlights of the trip for Pierce, wandering German bunkers on the inside while running through craters, produced by American bombs on the outside that make the area look like the moon's surface. The story of victory here is astounding. Imagining the Rangers climbing up 100 feet of sheer cliff to disarm the bunkers is unfathomable.

Running through the craters created by American bombs

A mix of confusing emotions overtakes you as you hear and see of this unbelievable fight for freedom and then remember the ugly hatred of the current day.




I am incredibly grateful and thankful we got to experience the powerful visit to such a sacred place and with all my being believe that hope and freedom can triumph.

At 9 Pierce was the perfect age for a visit, he engaged enthusiastically with Mathias, understood the gravity and it yielded a train ride full of conversation back home.

With a 9:30 pm arrival in Paris, it was off to a dinner at a corner bistro for some wonderful reflection on the day accompanied by Beef Bourgignon.

Needless to say, if a visit to Normandy is on your  bucket list, make it priority number one.

Christmas Around the World

With the unseasonably warm temps here, Christmas seems months away. But, of course, it's right around the corner, or in this case about 7 Metro stops away.  We venture to La Defense, home of the city's biggest Christmas Market. It's the downtown area that we really have no use for in a typical visit, but what's not to like about 300 plus Christmas booths!

Truly, the best xmas market we've been too, it's chock full of delicious delicacies from across the globe. Margaritas and burritos anyone? Corsican beer? Tunisian feast?  A flavor fest awaits. What also awaits is insanely high priced nougat, but holy crap it's good. And did I mention the cute boots of beer? Pere Noel did not make an appearance, but Pierce had fun hanging in his workshop nonetheless.

A lovely scarf also finds its way into my heart and on my neck.  I mean, I had to, I only brought one to Paris! That's almost a sin.

A big day with an actual plan tomorrow and an early wake up time awaits.

This Much is True

A late wake up was in store, after a long day on Tuesday. Today we had a vague mission, the Arts et Metiers museum. I've avoided it like the plague, because, really who wants to go to an arts and crafts museum? Truth be told, I've known it's a scientific museum for some time, but I've had a hard time forgiving the name.

There's really nothing better than an entire museum to yourself, no matter the subject. And this turns out to be a gem worth visiting. Although it will make you feel uber old, after viewing the 'ancient' fax machines! It's a beautiful space and even better when your only comrades are the very few and far between security guards. Imagination runs rampant.

The piece de resistance is the incredibly beautiful space they have taken over of the church next door.  Gliders, a Folcum pendant and cars galore decorate this grandiose space.  It's worth the price of admission just for this room.

Alain is so popular that he now as a social media presence, which
he would love to have you 'like'. 

All roads lead to Le Marche Des Enfants Rouge following the museum and it helps that it is 4 blocks away.  We expect a line for the Sandwhich master of the world but literally a huge huge obstacle awaits. Approximately 1.5 hours later we arrive at the altar.  We are blessed with the most scrumptious meal ever.  Yeah, it's that good, suck it up and wait and you will not be disappointed. We showed Alain (yes, the guy has a name) the picture of Pierce at his stand when he was three.  He was delighted and demanded Pierce, (he has dubbed him Pierre) to speak French the next visit.

After taking the glorious food to a park bench for lunch at the Square de Temple, we wander over to Notre Dame and sit and stare at the imposing and beautiful structure from the square out front. Then it's back home to get ready for the le babysitter.

Mitch and I randomly find out that Tony Hadley for Spandau Ballet is in concert at a very small local venue. The best part?  It's two metro stops away! We venture to Republique and to the venue called Alhambra, a small theatre that holds around 600 persons max and , for this show perhaps only 250 buy tickets.

A stunning show follows.  Queen, Don Henley and the Killers dot the line-up of his favorites.  An amazing show with fantastic sound.

A beautiful date night indeed

Le Tour de Paris-Velib Style

It's finally happened! Pierce is big enough to ride the Velib bikes and what better day then Car Free Seine Sunday! It takes some persuading, but when we are finally off and cycling, it's fantastic. Very uncrowded and gloriously gloomy. A fun two hours is had by all.

A lunch in the Marais yields great food on a second floor foray into perfect people watching.

A flaneur stroll takes us to a multitude of unintended pit stops, each a joy to behold.

Alas, our walk ends with an actual destination, the Pompidou. Open until 11 pm, there's this much ado Magritte exhibit, complete with Art Institute cooperation, so it's seems we must go. And, of course, it's the boy's favorite spot in Paris.

Between tube rides and cigars, it's a Sunday Funday indeed. Apres le show, we decide on a neighborhood bistro, Le Petit Marcel. Long story short, one of the most welcoming and fun Paris dining experiences of all time (see Darth Vader bathroom photo for evidence.)

A mounting interest in art

On Paris time with zero plans is always a good idea . We have a vague idea to visit the Bastille Saturday art market and finally make it a reality after a lazy morning walk to our former neighborhood bakery on Rue de Turenne. I don't care that Le Moulin de Rosa has not won a coveted award, it has the best damn banguette and chouquettes. And it helps for us that nostalgia is baked in. A quick stroll on the Place des Vosges and we explore said art market. Some great pieces that perhaps will become part of Gordon collection the following Saturday.  For now, it's just a looky loo expedition.

A walk up the canal follows, complete with motorcycle shop stop for Mitch.  A solemn moment at Le Bataclan is surreal and a gut check. A beautiful memorial at the public park across the street offers solace. 

Watching the skaters at Le Republique provides some levity, with a very vibrant square of action. 

A metro trip to Montmatre is in order, as is lunch.  We find a lovely, slightly off the beaten path Italian place and refuel to concure the steps of Sacre Coeur. But of course, the Funicular calls and while Mitch works off lunch, Pierce and I have all the 'fun.' 

Sitting for his portrait

It's a beautiful day and the views are spectacular.  I fall victim to nostalgia and hire a one of the many wandering portraitist to sketch Pierce.  We plant ourselves at a cafe on the main square and the guy goes to work. It's exactly the kind of entertainment the makes Paris special.  The Pierce portrait, while not the best one, is still worth the experience. There's much political discussion with the artist, which is expected and again it continually surprises me how much the French have deep knowledge of our government and it's finer and/or low points.

We all have a wonderful afternoon with the convivial waiters at the cafe and the surrounding atmosphere.

Joking around with arguably the nicest waiters in all Paris.

With his new favorite artist 

The camaraderie continues as Pierce befriends a talented artist, who just has to give us a deal!  Well, really, how can you refuse? I actually champion the artist as well, as he's the only abstract guy on the block. Mitch relents and the painting is Pierce's (as well a bonus small piece.....what a bargain!)

Back at home, it's sushi take away for dinner and an early night. 

As the Beaujolais goes, so do the Famille de Gordon

As the Beaujolais goes so does the Famille de Gordon.  It's true we arrived within 18 hours of the most marketed wine in history (save for the Beringer white zinfandel box wine).  Okay the Beaujolais wins.  The AA flight over is mercifully uneventful, although the plane has seen better days (perhaps in the early 1990s).  Alas, Pierce and I sleep a good amount and are ready for the full onslaught of CDG, which is actually fairly quiet on this Friday AM, Mitch not so much, but he's still ready for Paris day one. An RER train follows to the dreaded Chatelet Les Halles station, home of endless construction and diversion.  BTW  the official count for public transport stands at Bus, L Train, Plane,  RER, Metro.  In other words, Pierce's ultimate adventure.

The wonder of public transport

My third pass at this apartment and I'd feel embarrassed if i didn't lead us straight there.  No worries and we are in.  A quick force induced nap yields to the desire to explore Paris now! A wander is in order.  As if by some gravitational pull all signs lead us to Etoile Marquante.  And lo and behold our bar man is still there.  Pierce has graduated from free sandwiches to a full blown Salmon Fume. It's nice to see some things don't change.

A late lunch is followed by an early dinner. It's Paris and we are on vacation, so judgement can suck it. Pierce takes the reigns and elects for the Falafel Place precisely 5 meters from the apartment.  Excellent call.  We've been on previous trips, but it tastes particularly good on this night.

Early to bed.