The Must Hit List

Truth be told, the favorites list is my least favorite to write. For the simple fact that discussing all the wonderful pleasures of travel and Paris in particular make me want to hightail it to O'Hare. But for the good of all Parisian bound travelers and those who wish they were, I'll soldier on and give you the Gordon's Perfect Paris Picks. Pierce is nearly able to write his own guidebook. In no particular order :) I could go on for days, so this is a highly 'edited' list.

l'Agrume

15, Rue des Fosses Saint-Marcel

I had the pleasure of dining here with a group of 'fodorites' and it was a wonderful experience on every level. The chef is a definite 'rising star' with an impressive pedigree prior to opening his own restaurant. The five course degustation menu was sublime, service was exceedingly friendly and efficient and the overall atmosphere quaint, yet modern.

Etoile Manquante

34, rue Vieille du Temple

As it goes in Paris, it is always cheaper to take your drink (beer or otherwise) at the bar. Most bars don't have stools, they are more apt for the drink and run expresso crowd. But this establishment, in the heart of the Marais actually has stools. Mitch and I spent many an afternoon while Pierce napped sampling the beer selection. The manager is a delight and he scored major points with me when he asked me in French where I was from in Paris and how did I meet my English husband. So yes, flattery will get you everywhere, well at least into your bar. If the weather is warm enough, snag a table outside and watch the wonderful world of the Marais trek past you. It's also a great sport to watch the cars avoid near miss accidents as this spot is at the center of a T intersection.

Le Moulin de Rosa

32, Rue de Turenne

This bakery is the best in all of Paris and just happens to be across the street from the apt. we stay at. Honestly though, the bread is spectacular and the pastries divine. It is a tiny spot and always crowded so it's a one in, one out policy as only about 6 people can be in there at any given time. Sandwiches are excellent as well. You'd be greatly satisfied grabbing a bite to eat and bringing it benchside at Place des Vosges.

Marches des Enfant Rouge

39, Rue de Bretagne

This market should be renamed 'it's a small world'.

A veritable around the world sampling from meditteraen, moroccan, chinese, italian and everything in between awaits you. Stall by stall discover whatever floats your boat, order it up and enjoy lunch across the street in Temple Square Park. Of course, we have a special place for our Gallette and Sandwhich maker guy who offers up the best of both in all of Paris. Beware he's not there everyday and seems to switch up his days off now and again, but he always lists his times on a chalkboard in his stall.

Activities

I'll refrain from the obvious sights of Paris. Since we are fans of slow travel. In other words, an itinerary is always shunned and wandering is mandatory, I'll highlight some of the places we love to watch the world go by.

Special shout out to the temporary YSL Exhibit at Petit Palais

If you find yourself in Paris between now and August 29th, do not miss the Yves Saint Laurent exhibit at the Petit Palais. If you are even remotely interested in fashion, this is an absolute must do. It was the highlight for me this trip and our only museum visit. Be forewarned, buy tickets in advance or you will be out of luck. The Petit Palais in and of itself is a beautiful building and their permanent collections are interesting as well.

Stroll next to the House Boats

One of our most wonderful walks was a 3 mile or so trek alongside the Seine (down below the upper boulevard) The road has a sidewalk most of the way and the views under the bridges offers a unique perspective. Also, checking out the house boats docked alongside the river opens the door on an interesting subculture. We spotted a cool propeller car along the way one day.

Jogging along the Seine on Sundays

Run, bike or roll every Sunday along the Seine. The road is cleared of cars and it's an open stretch for miles. Be sure to hit this early. It closes to cars at 9 a.m. and seeing Paris in the 'early' morning light along the river is amazing.

Like I said I could go on forever, but now it's back to reality. Feel free to email us for additional recommendations, or solicit ideas via posting. We have a million and one recommendations for toddler travel in Paris.

One and Done

Our final day takes us to our old haunts.

First off, a run is in order. We have a habit of saving our exercise until just before reality sets in. Sundays are perfect in Paris for runs, bikes or rolls. With the major street along the Seine closed to cars, it is an exercise free for all. I hit the pavement (or cobblestones as it is) first. Judging by my ipod run mix, i go about 4 miles. Great running weather, cloudy but not too cool, about 50. Mitch goes after me and twice as long.

Hunger approaches and we hit up an old favorite, our galette/sandwich guy at Marche des Enfants Rouge. The ham, cheese and onion galette, is just what we need.

A long romp in the Temple Park for Pierce is perfect. Mitch and I venture to one of our local haunts and enjoy the afternoon.

We see ripe for to encounter the random Paris acts of strangeness. In a single day, a Rio "carnavale" parade finds us in the Marais (umm..wasn't this a while back?!) and a roller blade brigade halts traffic for ten minutes. Both very entertainin, so no complaints. We just happen to make a habit of stumbling on these events.

A final play at Places des Vosges and Pierce is ready to go.

Dinner at our favorite corner restaurant (same one we went to for Pierce's birthday), has us feeling like locals. The greetings at each place are genuine and appreciated.

We'll miss it here. We'll be back. A bientot Paris. Je t'adore.

Yes, a favorites posting will happen this week.

A Roaring Good Time

Today's agenda includes the local market for lunchtime paella. We are also desperate for some breakfast items and with only two days left we need to make the most of the local fare.

A late start and the Saturday streets fill fast with shoppers. People watching in Paris is a full time sport. Always intriguing are the outfits of course. Ranging from Euro trash to chic to American retro, it's always a good show. I'd love to do a daily blog similar to the Glamour Do's and Don'ts column. I can never get enough of it.

A robust haul at the market yields some scrumptious cheese, paella, fruit for breakfast and nuts for Pierce. Brunch on an outdoor bench is in order.

Full bellies prompt a walk and Pierce takes his snooze. Mitch and I window shop and head to Marche des Enfants Rouge, but we are too late for the fish monger guys there. Instead a few blocks to the Bastille area we duck into a corner bistro. Some wine and beer with local rugby reruns on the TV feel likes home in the genial atmosphere.

Tomorrow there is a match between France and Italy in the Six Nations Tournament. Apparently France is very good this year, so the anticipation is high. We consider tickets to the match, but wonder if Pierce would last. I suspect we may find a comfortable place to watch it instead.

A roaring good time is in store after P man's nap. A brigade of perhaps 1000 motorcyclists overtake the Bastille intersection, just as we approach. The noise and excitement is enough for Mitch and Pierce to remain in awe. Motorized vehicles hold universal appeal for boys it seems. It is quite a sight to behold. We work out that it is a protest of some sort. Some kind of rally, but I can't read the signs close enough to get a handle on what they want.

The cops come fairly quickly after the group brings traffic to a standstill by circling the Bastille several times.



Following the homage to Sturgis, a jovial crowd enjoys the scene and Pierce partakes in the nearby merry go round.

A stop to purchase more fish from the local shop and a bottle of wine, make for a nice evening at home.



Mitch and I both plan runs tomorrow, we'll see how it pans out.

Y Paris is So Fashionable

The day is here! The YSL (Yves Saint Laurent) exhibit opens at Petite Palais. With tickets in hand, I am giddy with excitement. The prospect of all these exquisite clothes in one place makes me dizzy.

Out early to make the 10 a.m. ticket time, with stroller in tow. Security spots us and promptly pulls us to the front of the line and in a side entrance. Really?! For a moment I wonder if they are putting us in a room and forbidding a toddler access to this prized exhibit. Worry not, as we get immediate access to the event.

Awe-inspiring, jaw dropping appreciation follows. And the best part, Pierce actually loves it! He quietly considers many of the outfits and enjoys the videos. Mitch was prepared to shuttle him out if there were any issues, but he's a gentleman.

More than 400 outfits fill the galleries. Best of all, the exhibit is so carefully and beautifully executed it only adds to the ambiance. No photos are allowed. Which, I did not know until reprimanded (very politely), and, no I wasn't using a flash.

There are just no photos allowed period. I manage to snap two before security interrupts.

Glorious and sensational is the whole exhibit. I cannot resist the purchase of the official exhibit coffee table book.

Energy to burn after his fashionable and thankfully quiet contemplation of YSL, Pierce runs himself silly. A leisurely walk along the river is both relaxing and refreshing. Checking out the houseboats is something new. Always an interesting subculture of 'boat' people. The spotting of a propeller car is a highlight.

Back up to the Les Halles area and Pierce is pooped. The stroller sleeper accompanies us to lunch and we enjoy some respite from activity.

Following lunch we hit the streets again and Pierce jumps for joy on the trampolines in the Tuileries.

Jump off the metro and we pick up some fresh salmon from a corner fish monger. The fish turns out superbly, but the apt. will likely stink well into morning. Worth it for an at home feast.

Wine on the couch and the curtain comes down an another beautiful, fashionable day.

Mellow in the Marais

A restful night brings a new sunny day. We've certainly met our Vitamin D requirements, even if the weather is not too warm. We'll take the sun. A very mellow day of neighborhood wanderings.

A stroll to the Temple Square park and playtime for Pierce. A long nap for the little one, leads to Mitch and I enjoying falafels on a park bench in Place des Vosges. Following our gorge, we retire inside to one of our favorite local bistros right in the heart of the Marais. The manager greets us like old friends (so yes, we have consumed a few beverages here in the past). When P awakes the manager prepares some fresh squeezed juice and P takes pleasure in his sitting at the bar status.

Tonight is one of my most anticipated. I go to dinner, while Mitch stays to babysit Pierce. We'd love to both attend dinner, but no sitter available tonight. I plan to dine with some online friends.

Dinner with fellow 'fodorites' is a delight. Side note: Fodorites are fellow travelers who spend time on the Fodor message boards. We've met some wonderful people this way and it is always a truly special experience. When I discover that a few fellow board members are in Paris in March we organize a GTG (get together). One of the members plans a fantastic dinner at L'Agrume. An exceptional new restaurant in the 5th. The five course degustation menu is phenomenal. This small, charming spot is destined for big things. The early reviews (only open since late December) ensure that a big wait will be in store for anyone booking soon.

Dinner takes 4 hours and it is a relaxing, enjoyable evening.

B is for Beer in Brussels

If it's Wednesday, it must be Brussels. As big Belgian beer enthusiasts, we plan a day getaway to sample the best the Belgians can offer. For Pierce, this means an opportunity to travel via the high speed rail again. It's a quick 1 hour and 20 minute trip to deliver you directly to Brussels.

Up and out early from the apt, Pierce marvels at the trains lined up and ready to go at Gare du Nord. He entertains fellow passengers with his ongoing commentary on how the train works and what we are seeing out the window. Later, we'll meet some of these fellow passengers out and about in Brussels and they'll comment on his 'extensive' train knowledge. I guess that Thomas video is paying off ;)

Some initial confusion on the Brussels metro is quickly rectified and we venture towards the Grand Place. A central square in Brussels, and the tourist hot spot. While strolling towards our destination, we pass a great deal many furniture stores. Wow! This city has some serious interior design style. Some of the most interesting and cool pieces we've seen.

We stop for lunch at "The Golden Boot" directly on the Grand Place. It's an old school place with a classic atmosphere and seasoned waiters. Mussels are in order for Mitch and we sample our first new beers of the day.

Pierce runs ragged in the square after lunch and he is snoozing within a bit after we wrangle him in the stroller. It's a lovely day out and we hit up an outdoor cafe to continue the beer sampling. Some really amazing flavors. I am particularly fond of a white beer, similar in style to a Blue Moon, only significantly better.

Following nap time, we shop around a bit and Mitch finds nirvana at the Beer Temple store. A paradise of all things beer. Likely close to 1000 different beers line the shelfs. Glasses to match line an entire wall of the store. After some careful selections we leave to purchase the other thing Belgians are famous for, Chocolate :) We decide on these beautiful little squares of florentine on top with milk chocolate and white chocolate layering. They taste as good as they look.

It's back to the train after the debauchery.

We hit the 'bar' car section of the train on the way home to mix things up a bit. Another great advantage of train travel is the ability to move about during the journey. And, who can argue when the beers available include Duval and Leffe.

An early trip to the market awaits and we are off to bed.

A Tower and a Toddler

Behind a day in the blog, but the birthday wore us all out yesterday. Yes, it is true, Pierce is now 3. And, I must say that we may be setting the bar a little high for birthday celebrations. The P man woke up joyfully and to much sunshine. His first question "Mom, is the Eiffel Tower open yet?"

Another very brisk day, but unlimited sun makes it tolerable. We arrive to no line at the big tinkertoy. It may have something to do with the time (9:30 am.) or the fact that it is pretty darn cold and windy. Either way, no complaints, as lines are one reason we visit Paris in the off season.

Whisked away in the cool elevator and Pierce is in heaven. A bit of haze, but otherwise an amazing view. Wind forces us to retreat inside and the P man delights in his chouchettes. Little round pastries that he has nearly every morning, which on this day morph into his 'cake' for a birthday celebration atop the tower.

Back down on ground, we head for part two of Pierce Fest. The Jardin d'Acclimatation. The best amusement ever for the under 8 set. This 150 year old attraction steals the show again this year. The newly minted 3 year old takes pride in being able to make age for many new rides. The place is empty and Pierce continues to ride over and over again on his favorites.

Pure exhaustion follows, unfortunately we miss the nap window during our stroll :( . We take a break at the apartment and cross our fingers that P man will nap. He finally goes down and we rest as well.

Up and at it again for the culinary piece of the birthday celebration. We round the corner to one of our favorite (and kid friendly) bistros. A tarte Brettone (spinach, chicken, artichokes) is the birthday boy's selection. Duck for Mitch and tomato soup for me. All very suitable. The food is not the highlight here. The atmosphere is warm and friendly and the beer and wine is always reasonable and flowing pretty freely.

Pierce gets his present just before dessert and is instantly smitten with Annie and Clarabel (see Thomas the Tank Engine). I bring a candle and ask the owner to light it for Pierce.

The owner/manager is the nicest man in Paris and easy on the eyes for the gals out there (I am thinking like a slighty older Gerard Butler). He recognizes us from last year and turns on the charm. Very graciously he also surprises Pierce with a chocolate cake and comes out singing. As we are the only ones save for one other table at the tiny spot, it's perfect.

Following dinner the owner buys us a round of beers (Leffe) and we meet a wonderful Italian guy who stops by for a beer and brings his adorable dog. Pierce takes an instant liking to the dog and frolics around the restaurant as happy as can be. Truly a perfect celebration of an exhuberant 3 year old.

Winds of Change

A bright day ahead, but still brisk. The wind rivals Chicago. The forty five degree temp would be perfect without the windchill. We attempt to walk past Pompidou without Pierce knowing. Unfortunately (or fortunately) he is smarter than us. He recognizes the building immediately and declares "hey that is the funky building with all the elevators." So much for keeping it low profile.

After a half hour of elevator and escalator play Pierce is good to go. We go to BHV in search of kiddie gloves. Yes, we lost Pierce's a few days ago :( As a previous posts suggests I LOVE BHV. The fact that they are in midst of a their 6 day sale, which actually goes 10 days(?) is a bonus.

No luck on the mini gloves. But a Brio train table is enough to placate P man. Mitch and I recall the wonderful meal we had last time and immediately redirect to lunch. An awesome assortment awaits.

Following a meal, Pierce is adamant that we visit Notre Dame. Good thing, since we are only a few blocks away. A tour of the inside reveals his incredible delight at the stained glass windows. He is in awe. A deeper understanding than last year is clearly evident and it is remarkable to watch him.

An overwhelming need to nap overcomes P and Mitch and I enjoy our afternoon at a local cafe.

Awake from his slumber at about 4:30, P man directs us to the Notre Dame park. This area consists of one swing and a crazy French spinny merry go round.

Much play continues then we abort to our neighborhood. Mitch and P head to Places des Vosges and I buy wine and hit up the apt.

Discovering that that the local fish market is closed on Mondays alters our plans. We decide on Coreeen BBQ....otherwise known as Korean BBQ. It is actually excellent. Following dinner we all devour the caramel and walnut confection that I get at the neighborhood bakery earlier in the day.

The P monster turns three tomorrow. My, how time flies :)

Brisk with a Side of Fallafel

The day begins with a run. Not us, rather watching the Semi de Paris, the half marathon. Mitch attempts to register a few weeks back but the 20,000 person plus race is full and he opts not to run as 'unofficial'.

We dutifully man a baguette station and watch the hordes of runners pass. As the only people cheering, it is a fairly funny sight. I smile to think the reaction if I had brought my cowbell.

It's a brisk day with a bit of a windchill. Thankfully the sun is shining bright with no clouds. Still in all, you think we'd be tougher as Chicagoans, but I was freezing today and it was upper 30s.

We wander to an area of new exploration for us, the Canal St. Martin neighborhood. The canal and locks are pretty cool, as are the bridges crossing the canal. Alas, on this quiet Sunday there is not much activity. It's odd that we even leave the Marais on Sunday, since this is the place to be. The only arrondissement where practically everything is open. Most importantly, this means the fallafel places are open tonight.

Pierce snoozes and we eat at a little bistro along the main Marais shopping drag. The P man wakes up to find himself in the restaurant and delights in being able to consume even more food. As in Chicago, the boy is an eating machine here.

A bit of window shopping for me is the perfect cap to lunch. A white dress (presumably wedding) stops me in my tracks. Simply stunning. I am reminded I'll be missing the red carpet tonight.

An afternoon repose at the apt is in order. Following the downtime, a racous playtime at Places des Vosges ensues. The little guy excels at playground French, with all the essentials of 'wait', 'go' and 'move' as staples in his growing French vocabulary. He makes several new friends today and insists that they all shake his hand upon departure. With a quick Merci and Au Revoir, he fits in fine.

On to Rue des Rosiers, street of the fallafels. A stop in at King of Fallafels and we satisfy our yearning for the delicious treats. Baklava from a Kosher bakery completes the night. Maybe we should have run today!

Hidden Treasure

In my ultimate quest to uncover overlooked treasure, I made a major find today. A venture over to the Bastille outdoor arts market proved fruitful on many fronts. On Saturdays, the area hosts an art market akin to a Well Street Art Fair, only instead of once per year it is EVERY Saturday. While some impressive artists did beckon, I am taken with a purse and clothing designer with amazingly inventive wares. As always though I am wary of the impulse purchase and did a good look without buying (knowing they are open until 7 pm).

Following a day of contemplation and knowing Pierce would love to return to the on-site merry-go-round at the Bastille I opt to venture forward with the purchase.

Evidently, Parisians are in full discovery of said young designer since 90% of his wares are sold upon my late return. I manage to snap a small handbag and it is delicious. Not sure if this is an appropriate term, but I do love it. Sharp and chic is the best description. Perhaps a picture will be in order down the line.

Feeling flush from my 'one of a kind' find we attempt to parlay this luck into scoring a dinner table. Easier said than done on a Saturday night. But, really it is 6:45 so can there be that bad of a wait. Answer, YES! At any rate, after multiple rejections, we find nirvana. SIDE NOTE: Some of the establishments have 9:00 p.m reservations. Umm, hello, I have a three year old in tow, I think we are vacating before 9:00 pm.!!! Response: Madam: we would never rush you :). Ahh, France. Home of the leisurely pursuit, even with a kiddo.

At last, we end our hunger strike at Le Cafe de Musee. It is on the corner of our street and always highly sought after (darn good food critic reviews :) With a bit of luck and promising to be out by their next reservation at 8:45 we find food. Steak tartare for Mitch and Entrecote (Rib Eye) for me. Pierce licks the bowl of his carrot soup and life is good again.

Back at the apt. we hope for a silent night.

Wanderlust

We hope that jet lag left us last night. Pierce manages to get 8 hrs in, unfortunately that somehow translates into no nap today. C'est la Vie. Another beautiful sunny day greets us and we take it as a sign to head to Montmartre. The two Metro line switches are enough for Pierce to enjoy the day from the start. A giant poster of Pierce's favorite entertainer (Lady Gaga) at our metro stop sends him into overdrive.

He channels his Gaga energy to bolt up the stairs to Sacre-Coeur. But not before a quick stop at the merry-go-round. His reward at the top is a one man band playing the Beatles, coincidentally his second favorite band.

With about 200 people in the 'audience' P can't supress his urge to bust a move and soon becomes part of the show. The video Mitch took will be in high rotation as he ages.

We continue the day with a walk through a gorgeous neighborhood of homes about 1 mile from Sacre-Coeur. Some seriously stunning places and interesting architecture. The benefit of no plans is that you can wander at will. This largely residential area would have never been on our initial radar.

Back to the metro and we make our way to the Tullieres, yes again. Pierce's sailboat addiction continues to grow. He jumps for joy the entire time and for 2 euros for a 1/2 hour boat rental this may be the best entertainment value in Paris.

A dinner of leftovers and wine on the couch is a relaxing ending to the day.

Set Sail

A late start is in order after a fretful nights sleep. By the time we leave the apt. it is Noon. No matter, as we are only steps from Place des Vosges, which the P monster loves. We head over and P proceeds to chase pigeons, hang on the seesaw and generally harass the other kids. To be honest, he really fancies a young French girl and is dismayed when she neglects to accept his invitation to seesaw.

It's rough going getting P to nap. After a trip to Notre Dame and a few moments spectating some insane roller bladers, we manage to roam to Hotel de Ville, Paris City Hall. We know this is trouble because of the huge carousel on the grounds. We relent and I ride with Pierce on the top level. After this, he naps. Mitch and I aimlessly wander and have a our afternoon date at one of our favorite local bistros.

A metro ride is on the top of Pierce's wish lists. If we succumb to his wishes, we would ride the metro 23 out of 24 hrs per day. We disembark at the Tullieres and catch the glamour of the fashion week tents. What I would not give to check that out :) Equally as appealing is watching Pierce's face when he and Mitch rent a small sailing boat to commadeer. Pure joy.

Dinner calls and we opt for a rotisserie chicken from a street side vendor. Kronenbourg offers the perfect complement. Not sure what awaits us this evening. Likely another book fest. Hopefully the last one of the trip. A bientot :)

We're Back....

Before I get flamed for not doing the favorites list from our last trip, I promise to do it after this one :) In the meantime, on to the new adventures. We arrive in Paris this morning after an uneventful flight from Chicago. A quick seven and a half hour passes easily with Pierce and I sleeping and Mitch checking out the in-flight movies. Thankfully the flight is fairly empty and we spread out over six seats. Two for one!

Close to 50 and gloriously sunny, the day could not wait. A stop at our apartment (the same one we rented last year) elicits immediate memories and had a crack-like affect on Pierce. The kid literally runs around the apt. for an hour highlighting in precise commentary everything he loves about the apartment, in a frantic, hyper voice. A final declaration of "I love Paris" was enough to get us out the door and exploring.

First order of business....the Bell Park. A smallish park near our apt that Pierce favors due to the church bells which toll above it every 30 minutes. A few games of soccer with the local kids and hunger sets upon us and we retreat to the streets. We miraculously score at table at Breizh Cafe, unbelievably good crepes and just what we need to settle into Paris. It is at this point we break our cardinal rule of Paris and dining out. Pierce is still awake and on verge of meltdown. We scarf down as quickly as possible and manage to make an escape with just a minute to spare before Defcon One (sp?). On the way out Pierce receives some 'warm' french sentiment in the form of stern stares.

Thankfully, true to his stroller naps of past, Pierce passes out about 10 minutes following lunch. Mitch and I stroll for a bit and I pop into the neighborhood church. I'd be remiss not to say this day is hard for me, as my mom passed away on this day in 1994. It gives me great comfort to keep her memory alive in a place that lightens my soul as Paris does

After a few Affligems (beer is good for jet lag), we head to Monoprix. I could spend hours there and probably have. Between the clothes, makeup and food, it's a complete delight of the senses. I have a momentary lapse in french speaking ability and cannot think of the word for garlic, which I somehow cannot locate at the store. After some comical descriptions, the clerk says to me in French "Ah yes, why didn't you just tell me it is used to ward off Vampires, like on Buffy?" Okay so this guy is clearly a man (well a slightly awkward teenage boy) after my own heart. We stock up on the basics and head home to collapse on the couch.

A mellow dinner is in order with our Monoprix goodies. Foie Gras and cheese for appetizers are first up, followed by Pesto Pasta with mushrooms.

One of two scenarios await us this evening, a Thomas the Train marathon if Pierce can't sleep or a lovely wine induced slumber. Guess which one we are hoping for.

UPDATE: Neither a nor b played out last night. But we did manage to avoid a Thomas marathon and instead settle for endless book reading and lots of 'why isn't the sun out yet', 'is Monoprix open yet?' The joys of a toddler and jet lag :)