Of Towers and Sailboats and Friendly French

The last day of vacation is always bittersweet, especially so for Paris for me. It suddenly feels like you've done nothing, yet everything and time is running out. Given the opportunity to spend a year or two here, I would not hesitate to make the move. The lifestyle and joie de vivre is truly contagious.

I suppose it is always a 'see you soon' rather than permanent goodbye. There's something timeless, yet modern about this beautiful place that defies comparison.

On the last day, we honor Pierce's request to check out the Eiffel Tower. Mind you, not actually go up in it, but just check it out from the ground. We've both hiked the tower and taken the elevator in the past, so I think we've contributed enough money to this view to last our lifetimes.

Pierce thought it was vitally important to Wave the W with an Eiffel Tower backdrop and really, you can't argue with that.

The grounds of the Eiffel Tower should be renamed Capital of Selfie Sticks, the young men peddling the iconic annoyances alongside the more traditional tower trinkets certainly seem to rake in the dough.

A few poses here and there and we are ready for our next adventure. Heading to the only above ground Metro line is always a Pierce highlight. We take it to Luxembourg Gardens and enjoy the expanse, largely without anyone else in sight; unusual for a Saturday afternoon.

Of course, other than beautiful grounds the main reason for a visit here is the boats for hire. The tiny sailboats that dot the main fountain in front of the Palais. Proving you are never too old or young, both Pierce and Mitch delight in this activity. While the wind is a bit lacking, we still give it a go and select a boat from Morocco.  This seems like the right move since on its very first journey, it sails across at a fairly decent clip.  Boats from Greece and the Netherlands eventually join in the fun, but it's empty for the most part.

Beautiful mums continue to bloom to create a colorful splendor that fits the park beautifully. I've always adored this location.  After sailing we decide to walk towards St. Sulpice for lunch.  We meander through a quiet block and happen upon a quiet corner restaurant that maybe seats 25 people. Le Bon Saint Pourcain turns out to be a total gem. It's gourmet for sure and initially we venture in and there's not exactly a warm greeting.  We are asked to wait outside for a few minutes, when a table might be available. No worries, it's the definition of a quaint little street.

Our hesitation subsides nearly immediately upon being called in for our table.  The waiters are a delight and absolutely adore Chicago. One of them engages with Pierce about stepping out on the glass walkway at the Sears Tower and how much he loved it.  He also is an enthusiastic collector of police patches and thinks Chicago's is fantastic.

Lunch is sublime. A very small menu but absolutely divine in its simplicity. Pierce declares the chicken the best he's ever had. It's from some 'famous' chicken guy somewhere in the Normandy area, who apparently is the chicken king. At any rate, the food is as tasty as it is gorgeously plated.  I break my cardinal rule and snap a photo of the celery soup.

I have one last stop that I need to make on this trip and it's the target of Paris Monoprix!  But not before we venture through a Paris location of the London chain Marks and Spencer.  Behind the store is a small fresh food market with an amazing selection.  We clamor for some fruit to take home to eat before our flight in the am. Lychees and clementimes it is, although we could have selected much more for the infinite items.



Food stands are arranged so artistically here, you wonder if we would ever take the time in the US.  Probably not, but I love the French for this.

Monoprix follows are market visit and it's a score for Pierce with some new clothes that are certified Paris fashionable.

And the fashion parade doesn't end when I pop into a shop I've been eyeing all week and buy.....wait for it....a scarf! Yes of course this is the third one this trip, but when you live in Chicago it's definitely not a splurge purchase right?!

Jardin by day, Jazz by night

It's Friday and we have a first signs of Paris weather.  Although it is 50, there's that unmistakeable dampness that chills you outright. No complaints though, as this is the first time this trip that Paris has shown her true weather.

What better day to head to an amusement park right?! We unintentionally go about reliving Pierce's 3rd birthday at the Jardin d'Acclimitation. Our first plan to rent bikes at the Bois de Boulogne, but we were sidetracked at Porte Maillot where Le Petite Train takes you to the amusement park. And, once Pierce eyed that train, we were off on a visit to yesteryear when he was just barely old enough to ride some of the attractions.

This go around lots is closed, but lucky for Mitch not the 'river cruise'. He loves it more than he's willing to admit. Just about the only other ride actually open is a roller coaster, so Pierce has many go arounds and we do a few too. There's a small bumper car ride that Pierce manages to make a friend with the only other kid around and they have a few plays.  Bumper car fun can transcend any language barrier. There's still a sense of pure joy for Pierce on these rides and we can only cherish that now before the tween thing sets in.

We stroll ever to the Foundation Louis Vuitton adjacent to the park, but just take a gander at the outside, as the exhibit is a popular one now and more line waiting is not our thing on this day.

The grounds are really beautiful and with fall colors still hanging on, there is a zen feeling to it.  Hunger prevails and we trek (and trek) to find a restaurant that is not too crowded and is not fast food. Apparently everyone had the same idea to eat lunch at 3:00 pm on Friday. Finally, we find the perfect spot and the food and warmth nourish us forward.

It's back to our hood and our daily visit to BHV, I just love this department store. It's got a great vibe and the basement sells everything from leather hides to toilet brushes and safes. Always a bit of a trip.

Back at the apartment and it's nearly time for date night part deux.  We have no plans, except for the vague idea that we'd like to see some more live music.  We eventually head to the Latin Quarter and find Le Petite Journal Saint Michele. It's an old and well respected Jazz club that has a band called High Society de Paris on this night.

The basement venue is tiny and the 7 piece band is clustered in a corner. It feels like watching the band in a cave, a cozy one.  The band is fantastic and with wine and a cheese plate and a French Jazz band, it feels authentic and a perfect date.

A Market Feast

Crepes, Paella and Oysters Oh My! Nothing says Thanksgiving like a street market.

The best way to eat your way through Paris is the food markets. And, the best of the best can be found in the shadow of the Bastille monument, where every Thursday and Sunday two hundred plus vendors invade the area.

Until now, I've not had a true Galette on this trip, a buckwheat bonanza of goodness that seems impossible to ever recreate at home. The Breton vendor at the Bastille market had me at egg, tomato and goat cheese, pure breakfast heaven. Pierce opts for a Nutella and banana crepe and who can blame him. Mitch goes for a paella from an adjacent stand.

Further into the Market, Mitch decides we need Oysters. He's right of course. And picks the perfect stand. A quick conversation yields amazing results and a mixed plate of delicacies. Oh, and free wine.  I nearly forgot the most important part. The Oyster Monger (I assume this name stands) is very generous and when I try to pay for the wine refuses me outright.  En Francais Bien Sur.

Following our culinary adventure, Pierce suggests another Christmas Market.  Do we dare? Okay fine.  The Champs Elysee market it is.

The festive atmosphere is always a delight, even if it can be beyond cheesy.  The gourmet pavilion has a champagne hut and a hundred wonderful smells wafting from each booth. Pierce decides he needs even more food and grabs a salmon sandwich, while Mitch and I enjoy some of the Bieres de Noel. A leisurely few hours is spent meandering the booths and buying the requisite Christmas ornament.

The wonder of food and a culinary crash course courtesy of the friendly vendors makes this a special day indeed. Oh and there is also time for some 'snow' sledding fun for the boys.

Finally, it's back to the apartment to stalk the noodle place on the corner for its 7 pm opening time. Mitch takes one for the team and stands guard in line starting at 6 pm.  Well, rather, he sits guard while bringing a small plastic stool from the apartment.  It gives an air of professional line waiter.

We are ushered in at precisely 7 pm and enjoy a true feast of deliciousness to celebrate Turkey Day the Sichuan way.

Full bellies and thankful for another beautiful day in Paris.

Reflections on Normandy

It's rise and shine at 6 am to catch a 7 am train to Caen (imagine you are a crow and that's how you pronounce this city's name). A little glitch in the train sets off a bit late, but we have a cabin nearly to ourselves, until some random backpacker decides to crash.  C'est la Vie.

At only 1 hour 40 minutes, it's an easy ride. Mitch and Pierce sleep, while I keep vigil making sure we get off at the right stop.

Awaiting our arrival is a guide I hired for a 9 hour tour of the Normandy sites.  Specifically the American beaches, cemetery and anything else we can fit in.  Mathias is everything he is advertised to be and more.  A Normandy native, his encyclopedic knowledge combined with his family's personal history is extraordinary.

Mathias outlining the invasion 

Omaha Beach is the first stop and what strikes me is my God, this is absolutely massive. It's also the most peaceful scene I've come across in a long time.  We are alone on this wide expanse of beach and the sun is impeccable and the sea resembles Lake Michigan, a flat horizon of passiveness.

Of course, what happened here is anything but passive, rather an unimaginable blood bath. Mathias methodically details the events of June 6, 1944 complete with photos and 'sand mapping' of the beach invasion. It's nearly too much to comprehend.

A hike up the bluff of pure green carpet of grass and it feels like Ireland.  Wild flowers still bloom, despite the calendar. Solemn monuments stand guard like fortified bastions of hope.

The American cemetery overlooking Omaha Beach is an exceptionally beautiful monument to those who gave their lives so others may see days of freedom. It is at once visually stunning and heartbreaking.

On the inside of a German bunker. This one overtaken by some
seriously incredible Army Rangers.

A visit to Pont Du Hoc yields the highlights of the trip for Pierce, wandering German bunkers on the inside while running through craters, produced by American bombs on the outside that make the area look like the moon's surface. The story of victory here is astounding. Imagining the Rangers climbing up 100 feet of sheer cliff to disarm the bunkers is unfathomable.

Running through the craters created by American bombs

A mix of confusing emotions overtakes you as you hear and see of this unbelievable fight for freedom and then remember the ugly hatred of the current day.




I am incredibly grateful and thankful we got to experience the powerful visit to such a sacred place and with all my being believe that hope and freedom can triumph.

At 9 Pierce was the perfect age for a visit, he engaged enthusiastically with Mathias, understood the gravity and it yielded a train ride full of conversation back home.

With a 9:30 pm arrival in Paris, it was off to a dinner at a corner bistro for some wonderful reflection on the day accompanied by Beef Bourgignon.

Needless to say, if a visit to Normandy is on your  bucket list, make it priority number one.

Christmas Around the World

With the unseasonably warm temps here, Christmas seems months away. But, of course, it's right around the corner, or in this case about 7 Metro stops away.  We venture to La Defense, home of the city's biggest Christmas Market. It's the downtown area that we really have no use for in a typical visit, but what's not to like about 300 plus Christmas booths!

Truly, the best xmas market we've been too, it's chock full of delicious delicacies from across the globe. Margaritas and burritos anyone? Corsican beer? Tunisian feast?  A flavor fest awaits. What also awaits is insanely high priced nougat, but holy crap it's good. And did I mention the cute boots of beer? Pere Noel did not make an appearance, but Pierce had fun hanging in his workshop nonetheless.

A lovely scarf also finds its way into my heart and on my neck.  I mean, I had to, I only brought one to Paris! That's almost a sin.

A big day with an actual plan tomorrow and an early wake up time awaits.

This Much is True

A late wake up was in store, after a long day on Tuesday. Today we had a vague mission, the Arts et Metiers museum. I've avoided it like the plague, because, really who wants to go to an arts and crafts museum? Truth be told, I've known it's a scientific museum for some time, but I've had a hard time forgiving the name.

There's really nothing better than an entire museum to yourself, no matter the subject. And this turns out to be a gem worth visiting. Although it will make you feel uber old, after viewing the 'ancient' fax machines! It's a beautiful space and even better when your only comrades are the very few and far between security guards. Imagination runs rampant.

The piece de resistance is the incredibly beautiful space they have taken over of the church next door.  Gliders, a Folcum pendant and cars galore decorate this grandiose space.  It's worth the price of admission just for this room.

Alain is so popular that he now as a social media presence, which
he would love to have you 'like'. 

All roads lead to Le Marche Des Enfants Rouge following the museum and it helps that it is 4 blocks away.  We expect a line for the Sandwhich master of the world but literally a huge huge obstacle awaits. Approximately 1.5 hours later we arrive at the altar.  We are blessed with the most scrumptious meal ever.  Yeah, it's that good, suck it up and wait and you will not be disappointed. We showed Alain (yes, the guy has a name) the picture of Pierce at his stand when he was three.  He was delighted and demanded Pierce, (he has dubbed him Pierre) to speak French the next visit.

After taking the glorious food to a park bench for lunch at the Square de Temple, we wander over to Notre Dame and sit and stare at the imposing and beautiful structure from the square out front. Then it's back home to get ready for the le babysitter.

Mitch and I randomly find out that Tony Hadley for Spandau Ballet is in concert at a very small local venue. The best part?  It's two metro stops away! We venture to Republique and to the venue called Alhambra, a small theatre that holds around 600 persons max and , for this show perhaps only 250 buy tickets.

A stunning show follows.  Queen, Don Henley and the Killers dot the line-up of his favorites.  An amazing show with fantastic sound.

A beautiful date night indeed

Le Tour de Paris-Velib Style

It's finally happened! Pierce is big enough to ride the Velib bikes and what better day then Car Free Seine Sunday! It takes some persuading, but when we are finally off and cycling, it's fantastic. Very uncrowded and gloriously gloomy. A fun two hours is had by all.

A lunch in the Marais yields great food on a second floor foray into perfect people watching.

A flaneur stroll takes us to a multitude of unintended pit stops, each a joy to behold.

Alas, our walk ends with an actual destination, the Pompidou. Open until 11 pm, there's this much ado Magritte exhibit, complete with Art Institute cooperation, so it's seems we must go. And, of course, it's the boy's favorite spot in Paris.

Between tube rides and cigars, it's a Sunday Funday indeed. Apres le show, we decide on a neighborhood bistro, Le Petit Marcel. Long story short, one of the most welcoming and fun Paris dining experiences of all time (see Darth Vader bathroom photo for evidence.)

A mounting interest in art

On Paris time with zero plans is always a good idea . We have a vague idea to visit the Bastille Saturday art market and finally make it a reality after a lazy morning walk to our former neighborhood bakery on Rue de Turenne. I don't care that Le Moulin de Rosa has not won a coveted award, it has the best damn banguette and chouquettes. And it helps for us that nostalgia is baked in. A quick stroll on the Place des Vosges and we explore said art market. Some great pieces that perhaps will become part of Gordon collection the following Saturday.  For now, it's just a looky loo expedition.

A walk up the canal follows, complete with motorcycle shop stop for Mitch.  A solemn moment at Le Bataclan is surreal and a gut check. A beautiful memorial at the public park across the street offers solace. 

Watching the skaters at Le Republique provides some levity, with a very vibrant square of action. 

A metro trip to Montmatre is in order, as is lunch.  We find a lovely, slightly off the beaten path Italian place and refuel to concure the steps of Sacre Coeur. But of course, the Funicular calls and while Mitch works off lunch, Pierce and I have all the 'fun.' 

Sitting for his portrait

It's a beautiful day and the views are spectacular.  I fall victim to nostalgia and hire a one of the many wandering portraitist to sketch Pierce.  We plant ourselves at a cafe on the main square and the guy goes to work. It's exactly the kind of entertainment the makes Paris special.  The Pierce portrait, while not the best one, is still worth the experience. There's much political discussion with the artist, which is expected and again it continually surprises me how much the French have deep knowledge of our government and it's finer and/or low points.

We all have a wonderful afternoon with the convivial waiters at the cafe and the surrounding atmosphere.

Joking around with arguably the nicest waiters in all Paris.

With his new favorite artist 

The camaraderie continues as Pierce befriends a talented artist, who just has to give us a deal!  Well, really, how can you refuse? I actually champion the artist as well, as he's the only abstract guy on the block. Mitch relents and the painting is Pierce's (as well a bonus small piece.....what a bargain!)

Back at home, it's sushi take away for dinner and an early night. 

As the Beaujolais goes, so do the Famille de Gordon

As the Beaujolais goes so does the Famille de Gordon.  It's true we arrived within 18 hours of the most marketed wine in history (save for the Beringer white zinfandel box wine).  Okay the Beaujolais wins.  The AA flight over is mercifully uneventful, although the plane has seen better days (perhaps in the early 1990s).  Alas, Pierce and I sleep a good amount and are ready for the full onslaught of CDG, which is actually fairly quiet on this Friday AM, Mitch not so much, but he's still ready for Paris day one. An RER train follows to the dreaded Chatelet Les Halles station, home of endless construction and diversion.  BTW  the official count for public transport stands at Bus, L Train, Plane,  RER, Metro.  In other words, Pierce's ultimate adventure.

The wonder of public transport

My third pass at this apartment and I'd feel embarrassed if i didn't lead us straight there.  No worries and we are in.  A quick force induced nap yields to the desire to explore Paris now! A wander is in order.  As if by some gravitational pull all signs lead us to Etoile Marquante.  And lo and behold our bar man is still there.  Pierce has graduated from free sandwiches to a full blown Salmon Fume. It's nice to see some things don't change.

A late lunch is followed by an early dinner. It's Paris and we are on vacation, so judgement can suck it. Pierce takes the reigns and elects for the Falafel Place precisely 5 meters from the apartment.  Excellent call.  We've been on previous trips, but it tastes particularly good on this night.

Early to bed.

Sketch and stroll

So a few days late and many Euros short, but I am finally completing the blog for this trip.

Let the sketching begin

After the day long adventure to the Capital of Christmas on Monday,  I plan on the whole lot of us sleeping in for a relaxing final day on Tuesday.

Building construction has another idea. I never thought the French worked at 8:30 am. But apparently the unit above ours is undergoing renovation, either that or they just like to play with drills.

Actually this apartment has a mix of noise treats, one more decidedly pleasant.  There's a vocal school just beneath us and there's truly lovely Opera singers in training belting it out for good portions of the day.

So up and at it early, Pierce comes up with an inspired idea for the final day.  He would like to sketch his way through Paris. His goal is to visit some major museums and monuments with sketch book/journal in tow.

We start at the Pompidou, as it is closed on Tuesdays, he has the plaza to himself. A pretty good rendition of the 'inside out' modern masterpiece is drawn-up. It's another delightfully clear and sunny day, perfect for a final stroll about town.

Getting some perspective in front of Notre Dame

Next up is Notre Dame, it's still relatively early (11:30 am) and we set our sights on the line for the stairs up to the towers.  It's really quite short, so while Mitch stands in-line, Pierce takes a seat in from the the Grande Dame and produces a very pretty picture. While tourists linger about looking at his sketching, I feel like we should almost put a hat out for tips.

The line is all of 15 minutes, which is tolerable even for me, by the time Pierce is done sketching we are ascending into the winding steps of the tower

Rather than exit through the gift shop, you enter through it to visit the Notre Dame tower steps.  As with some of the other activities of this trip, it's been years since we went to the top of Notre Dame and with unlimited sunshine and clear views over the rooftops of Paris, why not?

A mere 400 twisting and turning steps later and we make it to the top at the ideal time.  It's Noon and the bells are announcing the midday in earnest.  Being able to see the action up close is remarkable for the eyes, not so much on the ears.. After about 40 minutes of admiring the vistas we descend the stairs and its on to the next adventure.

The Gargoyle view

Working up an appetite after the steps we hop the metro to hit up the culinary stop we do not want to miss, the sandwhich guy at Marche des Enfants Rouge (see previously blog posts for our adoration of this master). The stop is Arts et Metiers on the Metro, which breaks with tradition and foregoes subway tile for a cooper filled fantasy submarine effect.  It's a delightful departure that plays to great affect.

With the Marche in sight, a slight panic sets in that Monsieur Sandwich will not be there today.  And, panic is well warranted, he is off on Tuesday!  The market is open, but I forget that he is gone on Tuesday.  I won't make this mistake on the next trip :)

Not to worry as the area has a plethora of available options. We hit up the Cafe de Marche Des Enfants Rouge (no points for originality on the name).  But as random finds sometimes have a way of being exactly what you need, the Cafe is a find. A vegetable soup for me is divine, while Pierce falls in love with a creamy ravioli and gives the escargots a try. "A little too chewy, but not bad" quote the boy.
Mitch has what he calls a PETA nightmare, veal liver, which he devours.

Back on the Metro and it's off to the Jardin de Tullieries by the Louvre.  It's one of those days you can't waste inside and the gardens offer nice sketching opportunities to boot. Unfortunately the small boats you rent to guide around the  fountains are not for hire on Tuesdays, but we grab three of the iconic green chairs and just soak in the scene. It's one of those moments you can retreat back to when life gets hectic.

Back on the metro and we head for the Rue de Montorgueuil for some hot chocolate (which turns into a Nutella milkshake instead) and Affilgems for us. A short stroll back to the apartment and we chill until dinner.

For our last night we are thinking Korean BBQ, there used to be a great spot in the Marais. We discover it is no longer there but hit up a place a few doors down that is Japanese teppanaki.

And so we spend our last night in Paris enjoying la cuisine Japonais.  It's perfect.

Taking the TGV to Christmastown

200 mph never felt so smooth in the bar car.

The day the P man has waited for has arrived.  It's TGV day and he is up at 6:30 a.m all his own to embrace the high speed wonder.  He was too little on previous trips to remember much of the TGV, but has dutifully read up on its' engineering marvels.

A funny thing happened in France, he will correct Mitch for the English pronunciation of TGV, he actively gets annoyed. He's actually been trying to speak as much French as possible and for that, I give him tons of credit.  Wait until he hates me later for making him take French via private tutor.  One of the absolute best things my parents ever did for me (and they did an IMMENSE amount) and I hated every minute of it, until I was old enough to appreciate it.

I actually get a little teary about the thought of not speaking French on the return home.  Yeah, yeah, I could join a group or something, but it's just not the same :)

modern meets old in a redux  Solider Field. 

At any rate, back to the TGV.  Since we have been to Paris a good deal of visits and I know the TGV will make Pierce's year, I opt for a visit to the Capitale de Noel.  Yep the Capital of Christmas, Strasbourg.  It's a relatively new TGV destination (2007),and it's just over 2 hours, so it seems the perfect option.  Plus their legendary Christmas Markets has started three days prior so it's a must visit.

The train on the way out is perfection.  Literally, reminds me of airline travel waaaaaay back in the day. And we are in second class!  We all snooze a bit but the wonder in Pierce's face is contagious.  The 'hardened' business men next to use even smile in his amazement.  Strasbourg is the center for EU business and such so lots and lots of business travelers.

Notre Dame in Strasbourg puts the Paris lady in her place

So in general, Strasbourg services elves and business travelers.

Being a bit North of Paris, I fear it may be a bit chilly, but alas unprecedented Paris sunshine follows us to Strasbourg. Although a winter white dusting may be more appropriate for Christmas town.

The train is of course, on time!  Shocking to American's who ride rails.  The station is a mix of old and new and instantly reminds me of Solider Field.  The mix is the same.

A very short walk into 'town' and it's clear Strasbourg is straight out of central casting for Christmas.  They've lived up to their name of the capital of christmas.  It's quaint and charming and a bit Epcot.  You can walk the whole place, but of course they have a Tram……Hmmmm…..this smells like Disney and I almost look for logos underneath the tram.

The Christmas Market goods are from China generally so I am holding on to my Euros. Ironically I find the best ornaments in the Croation market (Strasbourg invites a new country every year to host a market in their monstrosity of xmas markets).  Seriously, the displays are CB2 personified for the most part.  Give me something that says Strasbourg at least (Thank you Croatia).

On to the other Kindlemarket staple, Vin Chaud.  Which translates to hot sugar wine.  Seriously vile, but it is sold every two feet so I imagine someone drinks the stuff.. And unlike their Parisians counterparts they do not sell beer at xmas markets, it is all vin chaud all the time.

A visit to the Notre Dame of Stasbourg is inspired.  Because Pierce and Mitch love all things clock, we visit the astrological clock in the cathedral, which honestly is stunning and dare I say better than Paris' lady church. I always marvel at how the heck they constructed these things, I mean it is miraculous in and of itself.

A visit to a local brewery is okay, but then again I think we are particularly spoiled by good beer and may be a bit 'high brow' in the regard.  But the food is actually really good and it's a quaint and 'rustic' joint, (read: a bit divey), which suits us well.

The overall atmosphere of Strasbourg at Christmas is magical. Yes, I just used a Disney term.  Alas, the lights street tiny corridors and alleys and general cheer are wonders.  The day is long, but lovely.  A short walk back to the train station and the day is one for the memory books.

Pomp and Pleasant Surprises

Escalator action with photo bombers

It's the first Sunday of the month, which means Christmas is 24 days away and also means, it's freebie day at Paris museums! To parents everywhere this roughly translates to you can get the heck outta dodge if the kid or kiddos hate it, without any “do you know what I paid to get in here?” confrontations.

Pierce has asked repeatedly, as in every single hour of the trip, to got to the Pompidou.  Make no mistake, while Art is his favorite class in school, this is all about the irresistible escalators.  Seriously even I admit they are cool looking.

To indulge the child and get some art on while we are here, we relent.  And, mostly because it is 50 meters from our apartment, so there’s just zero excuse. Really, we need some culture people.

Appreciating the art, by far the coolest piece

We arrive at  the opening hour of 11 a.m and it’s perfectly sans crowd.  As in galleries to yourself.  This is after we trek the escaltors a few (hundred) times.

We confer with the petite art aficionado to gauge his interest in checking out the galleries on floors 4 and 5 and he agrees like a French waiter (formerly known as garçon, when you ask for a check), which means it is with utter indifference that he accepts his fate.  And then the fun begins.  He is absolutely fascinated,enraptured by the  works of art.  I suspect this has to do with the fact that most of it looks approachable, and like something that a say. 6 year old could do?

Draw Yourself

No knocking modern art, but it absolutely appeals to the 1st grade demographic.  Pierce’s commentary throughout the galleries is unmatched.  Really we would have been bummed to get the audio tape tour , it would have been far less enlightening then his proclamation of modern art.  Needless to say, the boy had us going for nearly 2 hours through the exhibits.

Because Frida is everyone's homegirl

A stop at the galleries enfant (which was a Frida Kahlo tribute) and the trip is nearly complete.  With one important exception, the gift shop at the Pompidou is seriously swank and addicting. Funky little finds can keep you occupied for hours.  Pierce walked away with a spongy Lego notebook.  Not an official Lego product mind you, but an ‘artistic’ representation.  Even more than the real thing.

Starving for lunch, we retreat to the heart of the Marais.  A quick circle of the hotspots for food and it’s clear, it’s another Sunday Funday and we need to go seriously local.  Back to our old standby, Le Sevigne. It’s definitely not the best food, but it is cozy and familiar and best of all has available seating for us.

Refueled and ready to roll, we hit up Places de Vosges. Really one of the singular best places in Paris.  So Victor Hugo lived there and all, but even better there are joggers who case the square wearing Burberry and boots (not kidding), this never changes.  One thing that has changed is the playground, major upgrade!  Some pseudo mini ninja warrior creations and Pierce is ready to blow off steam.

International playground rules are in effect and Pierce hits his stride . Mitch and I listen to gorgeous Opera singers  a la street performers and it’s pretty much the perfect Paris Sunday.

After Vosges, we head home and stop for a quick aperitif, just something before the Bears game.  Like a pregame cocktail, only in a swanky bar.  The people turn out to be wonderful and Pierce indulges in a Nutella Crepe, while Mitch and I indulge in pints of Leffe.

Here’s the part where I skip the crap show that was the Bears game.  Suffice to say, we’ve now watched the Bears in more than 5 countries and I don’t want to remember this one.

On the plus side, I get some crepes sale from this women down the block that literally has been a serious Grinch on previous visits and somehow is insanely polite on this visit (insane, may be a theme with her).


To bed early, the TGV and the capital of Christmas awaits…..

Tales from the Tower and Sidewalk Solitude

First stop after the first 'flight' of stairs

The MetroKing on his throne

Another great weather day has us setting our sights on the Eiffel Tower.  As usual the fun is in actually getting there.  Two different metro stops, where we have to switch at stations!  Wow, if Pierce had his way we would go the 'long' way around and switch 50 times before arriving at a destination.

Pierce is thrilled to get the newer train car on the first ride, which means no driver up front, sort of like a    Disney people mover, which means you can spend a fraction of the cost by cruising around on new Metro trains than hitting up Disney Paris.

After positioning himself to ensure first car status, we are off and riding with Pierce and a train buddy in the drivers seats.  This French kiddo has no idea that Pierce doesn't speak French and regales him the whole time with excited delight on all things train.  Pierce nods and smiles and I guess two 6 years do indeed share an international language for all things train.

The elevated metro to the Eiffel Tower is the old school one, but the views suffice for Pierce to be pleased.   A quick walk to the giant tinkertoy of Paris and we are met with not an entirely bad line to go up, but as previously mentioned lines are our arch nemesis.  We take a look at the line to walk the stairs (nearly nothing) and opt for that instead.

Bathroom envy

Good idea for exercise and sights.  While Mitch and I sweated our way up the steps, Pierce practically bounded up the xxx steps.  A stunning view awaits and we enjoy the scenery a bit before taking the elevator down.  Check it off the list, and add another adventure that was amazingly fun and one that I didn't really have any intention of taking, such is travel with a 6 year old as cruise director.

Another couple metro rides finds us for lunch by the Sorbonne, with the intent to cruise Luxembourg Gardens afterwards.  We instead have a delicious and leisurely lunch, preceded by some great street music.  Both the bar and bathrooms at the restaurant leave Mitch and I with design envy.  A zinc bar with a stellar tap line is exceptionally well done.  We also harbor fantasies of redoing our main floor bathroom in Metro stop fashion.  And hey tons of people have long used metro stops as a bathroom, so it makes sense.

Christmas glory at Galeries Lafayette

Finding the gardens closed after our long lunch with hop the metro back for a second round of roller coaster riding at the Champs Elysees Kindlemarket.  It's a mob scene, but super festive and the roller coaster line is short.  Mitch and I indulge in a few Christmas ales, while Pierce does a few rounds on the nighttime coaster, which he swears goes faster at night.

As if our day is not already full enough we kept it going on another two Metro trains to check out the indoor displays at Galleries Layfette, a humongous, luxury monstrosity of a department store.  The place is pumping and for good reasons the Christmas decor is inspired.  And with that much Haute Couture as the sidekicks to the decor, it's a smashing success.

Another couple metro rides and we are back home and beat.  Paris is jumping on a Saturday night, but we are calling it early.  Take out is in order and there's only one place we want.  Falafels from Rue de Rosiers.  It's only about a 8 minute walk or so and I volunteer for the job.

One of the few things I enjoy is walking Paris by myself.  It's so magically cool with a side of a little grit that makes me want to just wander it all in silence, at my own pace.  Could be the equivalent of what a walk on the beach does for some people.  I need a city sidewalk as my atmosphere.

Our go to Falafel shop and a reason for a walk

The Champs-Elysees YAY! (you read that right)

Christmas Beers do not disappoint

Another Noon start time to our day.  May have something do to the fact that Pierce went to bed past Midnight.  I will say this, he fully embraces the culture here.

I  break my rule and we go to the Champs-Elysees.  Before you think I am heading to the equivalent of Woodfield Mall (and you would be correct), I must shed light on the reason for our visit. Rumor has it that the Christmas Kindlemarket is pretty kick-butt.  We take a chance and hit the jackpot.

Something that a dear friend said to me last week struck a cord. Looking at you KS!  She and her daughter were in NYC and she had a set of plans that did not include the typical tourist dreg.  But when she got there and saw the smiles that even the simplest things brought, all plans out the window. Wise words.

The market is pure magic and a kid heaven. Best of all, no lines, no waiting.  I do not need to remind anyone, The Gordons are line free. Yes, I get it, I could use some botox, but that's another post.

A ride on the Ferris Wheel

We hit up the massive Ferris Wheel, for the cool price of 25 Euros.  Normally I would say not worth it, but with zero line and a killer view, who can argue. The dude gives us three rotations and we are set.

Off to the more than 350 merchants that are part of the market, lots and lots of repeats.  But alas, the boys face is pure happiness the whole time.  A ride down a slide, a roller coaster excursion and a 'bungy cord' bouncy thing are huge hits.

Lest you think Mitch and I are martyrs we indulge in the Christmas Ales available at nearly every stand.  

Pierce kept calling Euros Churros, so I could
not resist this picture

Thrilled to taste the Noel version of some of our favorites, Leffe, Grimbergen and Affilgem we solider on in the name of Christmas spirit.

A Metro ride back to our hood and a quick wine fused lunch brings us back to one of my other favorite Paris outposts….BHV.  This department store is simply devine.  You may compare it to a Sears but that would be an insult.  The basement does indeed have tools and also leather hides?!  But it is pure class  So much so that I indulge my shopping tendencies and buy a few beautiful things for the P monster.  Yes, he could care less, but as long as I can dress him like he gives a hoot I will continue.  Really is it any wonder we stopped at one, what would I do with a girl.  Besides drive me insane, I may be responsible of the Gordon bankruptcy

One of the many rides and activities
at the Kindlemarket