The Champs-Elysees YAY! (you read that right)

Christmas Beers do not disappoint

Another Noon start time to our day.  May have something do to the fact that Pierce went to bed past Midnight.  I will say this, he fully embraces the culture here.

I  break my rule and we go to the Champs-Elysees.  Before you think I am heading to the equivalent of Woodfield Mall (and you would be correct), I must shed light on the reason for our visit. Rumor has it that the Christmas Kindlemarket is pretty kick-butt.  We take a chance and hit the jackpot.

Something that a dear friend said to me last week struck a cord. Looking at you KS!  She and her daughter were in NYC and she had a set of plans that did not include the typical tourist dreg.  But when she got there and saw the smiles that even the simplest things brought, all plans out the window. Wise words.

The market is pure magic and a kid heaven. Best of all, no lines, no waiting.  I do not need to remind anyone, The Gordons are line free. Yes, I get it, I could use some botox, but that's another post.

A ride on the Ferris Wheel

We hit up the massive Ferris Wheel, for the cool price of 25 Euros.  Normally I would say not worth it, but with zero line and a killer view, who can argue. The dude gives us three rotations and we are set.

Off to the more than 350 merchants that are part of the market, lots and lots of repeats.  But alas, the boys face is pure happiness the whole time.  A ride down a slide, a roller coaster excursion and a 'bungy cord' bouncy thing are huge hits.

Lest you think Mitch and I are martyrs we indulge in the Christmas Ales available at nearly every stand.  

Pierce kept calling Euros Churros, so I could
not resist this picture

Thrilled to taste the Noel version of some of our favorites, Leffe, Grimbergen and Affilgem we solider on in the name of Christmas spirit.

A Metro ride back to our hood and a quick wine fused lunch brings us back to one of my other favorite Paris outposts….BHV.  This department store is simply devine.  You may compare it to a Sears but that would be an insult.  The basement does indeed have tools and also leather hides?!  But it is pure class  So much so that I indulge my shopping tendencies and buy a few beautiful things for the P monster.  Yes, he could care less, but as long as I can dress him like he gives a hoot I will continue.  Really is it any wonder we stopped at one, what would I do with a girl.  Besides drive me insane, I may be responsible of the Gordon bankruptcy

One of the many rides and activities
at the Kindlemarket

All roads lead to Lego (we think)

Not sure why we agreed to this, but Pierce was adamant that the Lego Store in Paris, was a must do for all of us. At any rate, trusty google map in phone and we were off at the very early hour of Noon.  Well, we are on vacation.  As all things Parisien our day started with a visit to the bakery and more pain au chocolate.  We needed reinforcement for the walk to the Lego Store.

Long story short, Google is a day late an a Euro short on their directions and address for the Lego Store.  It in fact directs you to the Lego headquarters and we all know that a bunch of corporate types are the last peeps anyone wants to hang with on a vacation.  The lovely young British lad at reception kindly directed us to where the real Lego Store was and his expression clearly  said "If I had a Euro for every person who came in looking for the store, I would ditch this dead end desk job"

A few blocks later and we hit pay dirt!  Not only that but the store is located in a beautiful covered mall that is a series of toy shops.  Needless to say Pierce is tres content.  We limit his purchase to under 20 euros, which he replies "How many churros is this?"  hmmm, well points for effort, he does like to equate everything with food.

We hop the metro and opt to lunch near our 'old' apartment in the marais by Place des Vosges.  We are walking along and spot a quaint little bistro, Le Petite Marche.  It's charming and delicious spot that we enjoy immensely.  Upon receiving his food, Pierce exclaims  "Wow!  I got a huge piece of meat!"  Yep, that's our boy.

Up next is one of my absolute favorite excursions of all time….MONOPRIX.  More than the Target of Paris, this is one of my beloved must visit spots.  And, yes there are tons of Monoprix stores throughout the city, but the one in the Marais is superb!  Literally there is no equal.  It rocks.  It not only has delicious fois gras (mitch), but it has the most gorgeous lingerie section (me) and a kick butt boys section ℗, which makes this particular outlet beyond compare.

Heading back on the number one line to Chatelet and I do battle with my most hated metro stop yet again  UGH, I should really learn.  Alas, we buy some new beer, head home and wait for it…….build Legos!  A quick trip for a very late dinner (10 p.m) even late by French standards and we finally sleep. A beautiful first full day.

Planes, Trains and Buses (not as catchy)

Nous sommes arrives!  The travel day consisted of all of Pierce's favorite things, all transportation related of course.  The 152 bus to the Blue Line, a flight to Paris then and RER train from CDG.   A relatively short walk to the apartment and we crash.  Well, by relative I mean 10 minutes, with the arch nemesis for all metro stations, Chatelet.  It's not enough that this particular stop connects with no less than 10 transport options, but they must also have 30 exits, most of which are closed due to construction work.  Needless to say even in the best of times, this metro stop and I are on bad terms.

My personal Chatelet issues aside, our trip was stress free.  File under the reasons why we travel internationally at Thanksgiving…..empty flights!  Which means, rows for everyone.  Suck it business class, we are reclining in all our own rows here in the cheap seats.  I say business class because this is the last equipment from AA that has yet to be upgraded.  We are talking no personal video devices here  people, dark ages.

Fortunately it is an overnight flight, so all we need is dinner and a glass of wine (me) beer (mitch) and French flight attendant who dotes on Pierce.   Unfortunately for the rest of the flight the first movie is Disney's Planes.  Wow!!!  exciting to no one, except Pierce.  Who, incidentally just watched this on the way back from the OC.

Fast forward …..easy flight, great apartment and we hit the road, after nap! I am military about a nap after the flight and mitch and pierce sleep peacefully for two full hours, me….not so much.  Le sigh.

We hit up Notre Dame for the windows and laugh at the tourists standing in line for the towers  Something Pierce has inherited from the both of us, we do not do lines.  Apres the Notre Dame excursion, Pierce is all about the Hotel de Ville carasole.  Just like old times, only now he is old enough to ride alone, no twirly whirly for us!  A visit to the Stravinsky fountain seals the deal on cool factor for Pierce.

A short stop at the store for provisions….mainly special edition beers and some breakfast stuff and we head back to the apartment.  An early dinner at the local falafel stop is next.  Seriously great stuff. Pierce cleans his plate and Mitch's.  Not ready to hit the bed, we venture the 10 meters to the nearest bar with Pierce in tow.  A big futbul match is on and Pierce is instantly engaged.  What the heck would we do if this kid was not into sports…..shudder!!!!

My personal challenge of the day is trying to engage to the locals in futbul talk.  I am hopeless and I never feel like more a fish out of water.  Can you imagine, me not being able to talk sports.  My downfall being I don't' know soccer in english, let alone French.  An attempt to steer the conversation to the NFL does not go over as planned.  Oh Well, there's still a language of sports and it wins over :)

The Must Hit List

Truth be told, the favorites list is my least favorite to write. For the simple fact that discussing all the wonderful pleasures of travel and Paris in particular make me want to hightail it to O'Hare. But for the good of all Parisian bound travelers and those who wish they were, I'll soldier on and give you the Gordon's Perfect Paris Picks. Pierce is nearly able to write his own guidebook. In no particular order :) I could go on for days, so this is a highly 'edited' list.

l'Agrume

15, Rue des Fosses Saint-Marcel

I had the pleasure of dining here with a group of 'fodorites' and it was a wonderful experience on every level. The chef is a definite 'rising star' with an impressive pedigree prior to opening his own restaurant. The five course degustation menu was sublime, service was exceedingly friendly and efficient and the overall atmosphere quaint, yet modern.

Etoile Manquante

34, rue Vieille du Temple

As it goes in Paris, it is always cheaper to take your drink (beer or otherwise) at the bar. Most bars don't have stools, they are more apt for the drink and run expresso crowd. But this establishment, in the heart of the Marais actually has stools. Mitch and I spent many an afternoon while Pierce napped sampling the beer selection. The manager is a delight and he scored major points with me when he asked me in French where I was from in Paris and how did I meet my English husband. So yes, flattery will get you everywhere, well at least into your bar. If the weather is warm enough, snag a table outside and watch the wonderful world of the Marais trek past you. It's also a great sport to watch the cars avoid near miss accidents as this spot is at the center of a T intersection.

Le Moulin de Rosa

32, Rue de Turenne

This bakery is the best in all of Paris and just happens to be across the street from the apt. we stay at. Honestly though, the bread is spectacular and the pastries divine. It is a tiny spot and always crowded so it's a one in, one out policy as only about 6 people can be in there at any given time. Sandwiches are excellent as well. You'd be greatly satisfied grabbing a bite to eat and bringing it benchside at Place des Vosges.

Marches des Enfant Rouge

39, Rue de Bretagne

This market should be renamed 'it's a small world'.

A veritable around the world sampling from meditteraen, moroccan, chinese, italian and everything in between awaits you. Stall by stall discover whatever floats your boat, order it up and enjoy lunch across the street in Temple Square Park. Of course, we have a special place for our Gallette and Sandwhich maker guy who offers up the best of both in all of Paris. Beware he's not there everyday and seems to switch up his days off now and again, but he always lists his times on a chalkboard in his stall.

Activities

I'll refrain from the obvious sights of Paris. Since we are fans of slow travel. In other words, an itinerary is always shunned and wandering is mandatory, I'll highlight some of the places we love to watch the world go by.

Special shout out to the temporary YSL Exhibit at Petit Palais

If you find yourself in Paris between now and August 29th, do not miss the Yves Saint Laurent exhibit at the Petit Palais. If you are even remotely interested in fashion, this is an absolute must do. It was the highlight for me this trip and our only museum visit. Be forewarned, buy tickets in advance or you will be out of luck. The Petit Palais in and of itself is a beautiful building and their permanent collections are interesting as well.

Stroll next to the House Boats

One of our most wonderful walks was a 3 mile or so trek alongside the Seine (down below the upper boulevard) The road has a sidewalk most of the way and the views under the bridges offers a unique perspective. Also, checking out the house boats docked alongside the river opens the door on an interesting subculture. We spotted a cool propeller car along the way one day.

Jogging along the Seine on Sundays

Run, bike or roll every Sunday along the Seine. The road is cleared of cars and it's an open stretch for miles. Be sure to hit this early. It closes to cars at 9 a.m. and seeing Paris in the 'early' morning light along the river is amazing.

Like I said I could go on forever, but now it's back to reality. Feel free to email us for additional recommendations, or solicit ideas via posting. We have a million and one recommendations for toddler travel in Paris.

One and Done

Our final day takes us to our old haunts.

First off, a run is in order. We have a habit of saving our exercise until just before reality sets in. Sundays are perfect in Paris for runs, bikes or rolls. With the major street along the Seine closed to cars, it is an exercise free for all. I hit the pavement (or cobblestones as it is) first. Judging by my ipod run mix, i go about 4 miles. Great running weather, cloudy but not too cool, about 50. Mitch goes after me and twice as long.

Hunger approaches and we hit up an old favorite, our galette/sandwich guy at Marche des Enfants Rouge. The ham, cheese and onion galette, is just what we need.

A long romp in the Temple Park for Pierce is perfect. Mitch and I venture to one of our local haunts and enjoy the afternoon.

We see ripe for to encounter the random Paris acts of strangeness. In a single day, a Rio "carnavale" parade finds us in the Marais (umm..wasn't this a while back?!) and a roller blade brigade halts traffic for ten minutes. Both very entertainin, so no complaints. We just happen to make a habit of stumbling on these events.

A final play at Places des Vosges and Pierce is ready to go.

Dinner at our favorite corner restaurant (same one we went to for Pierce's birthday), has us feeling like locals. The greetings at each place are genuine and appreciated.

We'll miss it here. We'll be back. A bientot Paris. Je t'adore.

Yes, a favorites posting will happen this week.

A Roaring Good Time

Today's agenda includes the local market for lunchtime paella. We are also desperate for some breakfast items and with only two days left we need to make the most of the local fare.

A late start and the Saturday streets fill fast with shoppers. People watching in Paris is a full time sport. Always intriguing are the outfits of course. Ranging from Euro trash to chic to American retro, it's always a good show. I'd love to do a daily blog similar to the Glamour Do's and Don'ts column. I can never get enough of it.

A robust haul at the market yields some scrumptious cheese, paella, fruit for breakfast and nuts for Pierce. Brunch on an outdoor bench is in order.

Full bellies prompt a walk and Pierce takes his snooze. Mitch and I window shop and head to Marche des Enfants Rouge, but we are too late for the fish monger guys there. Instead a few blocks to the Bastille area we duck into a corner bistro. Some wine and beer with local rugby reruns on the TV feel likes home in the genial atmosphere.

Tomorrow there is a match between France and Italy in the Six Nations Tournament. Apparently France is very good this year, so the anticipation is high. We consider tickets to the match, but wonder if Pierce would last. I suspect we may find a comfortable place to watch it instead.

A roaring good time is in store after P man's nap. A brigade of perhaps 1000 motorcyclists overtake the Bastille intersection, just as we approach. The noise and excitement is enough for Mitch and Pierce to remain in awe. Motorized vehicles hold universal appeal for boys it seems. It is quite a sight to behold. We work out that it is a protest of some sort. Some kind of rally, but I can't read the signs close enough to get a handle on what they want.

The cops come fairly quickly after the group brings traffic to a standstill by circling the Bastille several times.



Following the homage to Sturgis, a jovial crowd enjoys the scene and Pierce partakes in the nearby merry go round.

A stop to purchase more fish from the local shop and a bottle of wine, make for a nice evening at home.



Mitch and I both plan runs tomorrow, we'll see how it pans out.

Y Paris is So Fashionable

The day is here! The YSL (Yves Saint Laurent) exhibit opens at Petite Palais. With tickets in hand, I am giddy with excitement. The prospect of all these exquisite clothes in one place makes me dizzy.

Out early to make the 10 a.m. ticket time, with stroller in tow. Security spots us and promptly pulls us to the front of the line and in a side entrance. Really?! For a moment I wonder if they are putting us in a room and forbidding a toddler access to this prized exhibit. Worry not, as we get immediate access to the event.

Awe-inspiring, jaw dropping appreciation follows. And the best part, Pierce actually loves it! He quietly considers many of the outfits and enjoys the videos. Mitch was prepared to shuttle him out if there were any issues, but he's a gentleman.

More than 400 outfits fill the galleries. Best of all, the exhibit is so carefully and beautifully executed it only adds to the ambiance. No photos are allowed. Which, I did not know until reprimanded (very politely), and, no I wasn't using a flash.

There are just no photos allowed period. I manage to snap two before security interrupts.

Glorious and sensational is the whole exhibit. I cannot resist the purchase of the official exhibit coffee table book.

Energy to burn after his fashionable and thankfully quiet contemplation of YSL, Pierce runs himself silly. A leisurely walk along the river is both relaxing and refreshing. Checking out the houseboats is something new. Always an interesting subculture of 'boat' people. The spotting of a propeller car is a highlight.

Back up to the Les Halles area and Pierce is pooped. The stroller sleeper accompanies us to lunch and we enjoy some respite from activity.

Following lunch we hit the streets again and Pierce jumps for joy on the trampolines in the Tuileries.

Jump off the metro and we pick up some fresh salmon from a corner fish monger. The fish turns out superbly, but the apt. will likely stink well into morning. Worth it for an at home feast.

Wine on the couch and the curtain comes down an another beautiful, fashionable day.